Hrishikesh Desai’s new chef’s table aims to cement Farlam Hall as a food-led destination while also providing opportunities for his growing team. Caroline Baldwin catches up with the chef patron.
When Hrishikesh Desai announced he was joining Farlam Hall in Cumbria in February 2023, he said it was his chance to be a hotelier. And he has certainly lived up to his ambitions over the last year and a half.
While running the 12-bedroom, six-suite country house hotel in Brampton, along with finance director Karen Baybutt, he has overseen a recruitment drive to attract a total of 25 staff, while also achieving a Michelin star for his Cedar Tree restaurant less than a year after launch.
Now, the chef has embarked on launching Hrishi’s Table in the autumn, which will offer an intimate private dining experience for up to 10 guests, overseen by Desai himself and head chef of Hrishi’s Table Benhur Gaikwad.
The 16-course menu will showcase ingredients sourced from Farlam’s kitchen garden, paired to a selection of wines chosen by the in-house sommelier.
“Hrishi’s Table is all about showcasing the strength of world cuisine by using the basics of French gastronomy and the dishes I’ve enjoyed eating and cooking,” he tells The Caterer.
Alongside the tasting menu at Cedar Tree and the hotel’s more casual dining offering at Bistro Enkel, the chef’s table allows Desai to cement Farlam Hall as a food-led destination, while also providing more options for guests. But beyond the advantages of creating food experiences for guests, Desai first and foremost created his chef’s table to invest in his culinary team.
“I call it an investment in the team,” he says. “You can appoint a person who is talented rather than lose them to somewhere else – you give them responsibility, skills to run a business, marketing and PR. This gives us a chance to teach them, and they can go on to be good ambassadors for the hospitality industry.”
Desai says by promoting his team into new roles thanks to the expansion of the business, you are “creating entrepreneurs”.
“There’s been so much progression within a year and a half in the team, and I’ll always be there to guide them, but in the next few years I will reach a stage where business development is very important and everyone on the team has a role.”
He points to his former senior sous chef Gaikwad , who now has a big responsibility overseeing Hrishi’s Table, while in Cedar Tree Desai has promoted his head chef Mariusz Kleczek to executive chef across the three F&B outlets, with more promotions across back and front of house on the cards.
As well as providing opportunities for growth, Desai is also leaning into AI to teach the “modern generation” of chefs.
“AI is the direction every single profession is moving in,” he says. “AI helps us visualise concepts – but rest assured the creativity and natural ability of creation, which what makes us human, is the first thing we will harness.”
“As things move in the future AI will be an important tool. Everyone in the business should have the knowledge about it”
Desai explains how he is using AI as a supportive tool to help the brigade be consistent with plating. Having learned how Ferran Adrià used prototypes of dishes to ensure consistency of presentation at El Bulli, Desai has started to experiment with ChatGPT to create 3D illustrations of dishes.
“You can show in a photo, but a 3D picture is a different story in understanding the concept as chefs can see the dish from different angles and it’s the best way to learn,” he says, explaining how the tool is only used for visualising an idea, not to come up with recipes.
“We do a rough sketch on paper, feed the components into the AI and ask it to create an image – it’s not always used, it’s not foolproof and sometimes it’s a complete disaster – one time the AI thought beef wellington was a dessert,” he laughs.
“But in the future AI will be an important tool. Everyone in the business should have the knowledge of it.”