A TASTE

A taste of Argentina

Real cowhide seats, a bullhorn curving staircase and fine napery make the Gaucho Grill in central London's Swallow Street more than the spit ‘n' sawdust joint that the name implies.

One of a chain of 20 Argentinian steak houses, it is Dutch owner Gioma's first steakhouse in London, and the company has pulled out all the stops to make it memorable.

Dutch architect Bert Verwy was given £700,000 to convert a cellar beneath the company's Mexican restaurant. Descending a grand staircase, with twisted metal railings and torch wall lights, you meet the bar area head on, with the restaurant, beyond, split into two rooms.

Biscuit-coloured paint covers the curved cellar walls, which feature rusted metal uplights, and the floor is black and white marble, Vermeer-style. The cowhide chairs and banquettes have rusted metal meccano-look legs; and white linen napkins top the smooth, russet wood tables, laden with fine crystalware and heavy Italian cutlery. Even the toilets are highly specified, with pale marble tiles, horn-shaped door handles and conical sinks.

A sizzling grill "stage-set", at which two black-capped chefs in tunics busy themselves, completes the picture, enhanced with Latin American big band background music.

According to general manager William Edgil, clientele in this 130-cover restaurant varies widely - from suits at lunchtime to lively Latinos packing out Friday and Saturday nights. They sup on Argentinian wines and imported beef - the latter, vacuum-packed for the six-week sea journey, develops a slightly gamey taste - with lashings of Argentinian pickle, called Chimichurie.

Gaucho Grill 071-734 4040