Another fine meze
David Jones had a challenge on his hands when he was taken on as executive chef at Chintamani five months ago. Not only did he have to communicate with his multiethnic brigade of 14, many of whom don't speak English, but he was given the task of introducing Ottoman (rather than merely Turkish) food to London's restaurant scene.
First, though, Jones spent an educational week in the kitchen of owner Metin Fadillioglu's Istanbul restaurant, Ulus 29. "A lot of people think Turkish food is about kebabs," says Jones, who was previously head chef at the Coral Reef Club in Barbados. "But when you go to Istanbul you find Asian, Turkish, Lebanese, Jewish and Mediterranean influences and flavours in the food. I learnt a lot in that week."
Back in London, Jones created a menu featuring classic Ottoman dishes and others using Ottoman flavours but with a Western twist. To bring authentic flavours to the ingredients, the kitchen has a charcoal grill to infuse meats and vegetables with barbecue and smoked flavours, while a wood-fired brick oven in the restaurant bakes the lahmacun (mini meat pizzas, £5.25) and a selection of pide (oven bread filled with minced veal, diced meat, cheese or spinach, £6.50).
Jones is helped in the Chintamani kitchen by Turkish chef Salim Akkaya, who has been cooking for Fadillioglu for the past 22 years and who takes charge of Turkish classics such as imam bayildi (baby aubergines in a rich tomato and onion sauce, £4.40); lentil soup flavoured with sumac and lemon juice (£4); and meat kofte "29-style" (veal and lamb meatballs served with tomato sauce, £5.25).
Jones's own creations retain the traditional flavours and textures of the Ottoman empire (tomato, aubergine, filo, dried fruit, lamb, coriander, figs) but it is here that he brings in the Western touches. The meze (starters) menu includes sweet red cabbage rolls (£4.50). This is prepared by marinating duck in garlic and thyme. It is then confited, shredded and saut‚d with sultanas and a sweet red cabbage made with red wine, garlic, shallots and thyme. The mixture is rolled in filo pastry, deep-fried and served with balsamic vinegar.
Tuna kibbeh nayeh with nane yogurt is based on a Lebanese spiced bulgur wheat dish, usually made with lamb, for which Jones substitutes raw tuna (£4.75). Mussels are stuffed with a pine nut pilaf (£5.25) and salmon is cured in pomegranate, lime and sugar and served with a beetroot tzatziki made with beetroot, sultanas, yogurt and mint. Crab and fettuccine with chilli lime oil and coriander (£6) is designed to balance the menu.
Accompanying the 23 meze are nine main dishes. The roast quail is marinated in thyme and honey and served with an aubergine tian of black olives, capers and garlic, and beetroot juice (£17). Red mullet is pan-fried and served with a take on sauce vierge (made with peppers, tomatoes, sultanas, basil and lemon olive oil) and garnished with deep-fried basil (£24).
Chintamani, 122 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 4UJ.
Tel: 020 7839 2029.
www.chintamanilondon.com
A selection from the menu at Chintamani
Crispy veal dumplings with yogurt sauce, £5.25
Crisp pork belly with honeyed dates, £5.50
Harissa-crusted cod with lentil hash and parsley juice, £24
Oven-cooked leg of lamb with honey, £18
Coffee and almond bavarois, £7
Chocolate fondant with almond ice-cream, £7
Baked quince and apple with mascarpone, £7
