Best of the Est

01 January 2000
Best of the Est

Children visiting Est Est Est not only get the chance to eat their own menu, they also have the opportunity to create it.

The restaurant's menu dei bambini allows kids to "make your own pizza". Children are given a ball of dough, tomato and cheese, a choice of three toppings and a pizza tray. They "push out" the dough, arrange the toppings and take the pizza back to the chef for baking. Adding to the fun atmosphere, the deal (at £4.95) also provides them with a chef's hat and a balloon.

Since opening last November, the central Manchester branch has consistently served an average of 180 make-your-own (MYO) pizzas each month.

"A very big part of the Est Est Est formula is to have children as part of our restaurant scene," says Iain Donald, operations director for the nine-strong chain of restaurants in the North-west.

It's Friday lunchtime at the Manchester branch, and Donald is expounding his theory on why the chain is so successful as a family eaterie. "Conceptually," he says, "we are seen as a family restaurant. We choose our staff on the basis that they can demonstrate a positive attitude to children along with an understanding of family requirements. However, we also work to secure a decent amount of the business lunch clientele."

This kind of interactive policy is part of Donald's marketing strategy to encourage parents to recognise the chain as a great place to take children for a family meal. He is drawing on personal experience here - Donald has two children, aged eight and 11. "I've been through all the stages with them," he says, "and recognise the need to attract kids' interest so their parents can relax, have a glass of wine and enjoy dining out together."

MYO pizza is not the only option available to young diners. Vegetarian lasagne, spaghetti Bolognese and spare ribs (all £3.95) are available on the children's menu, but Donald says many families also order a selection of dishes from the main menu to share. A selection of small, snacky offerings is his latest concept - a sort of family antipasti.

Particularly popular are the pasta dishes, which kids seem to enjoy for their taste and ease of handling. The vegetarian lasagne sells an average of 40 portions per month. Pappardelle con funghi (£5.05) has ribbon pasta in a creamy mushroom and wild mushroom sauce and is another family favourite, as is fusilli con pollo primavera (£5.65) - strips of chargrilled chicken, julienne vegetables, mozzarella, pine kernels and Parmesan flakes mixed with spiral pasta (see recipes).

Individuality

While the total number of sales from the menu dei bambini and MYO pizza averages 240 per month, Donald says it is difficult to give a figure for the number of dishes ordered from the main menu.

Each Est Est Est restaurant operates to a similar formula, but retains individuality to cater for its local customer base. Guidelines set by Donald are part of a bid to walk the fine line between capturing the business trade and, he hopes, attracting a large slice of the family dining-out market.

The 120-seat Manchester restaurant is the latest in the Italian-inspired chain of outlets, and opened in Ridgefield in November last year. Donald refers to it as the flagship, as it is the biggest and brightest to date. "Its mixture of chrome and timber, along with open cooking areas, gives it a modern, yet comfortable ambience," he says proudly.

Weekday lunchtimes see more business-type customers walking through the doors, but early evenings and weekends tend to be family intensive - and that's the way Donald likes it. Generally, staff serve 450 covers a day, with an average spend of £14 on food and drink for adults and £5 for younger folk.

Head chef Terry Keenan has been with the group for three-and-a-half years, latterly at the Bury site before moving to Manchester. He smiles benevolently when asked about dealing with kids' fussy appetites. "I love kids," he says. "It's great to see them tucking into new foods. I've got two of my own, and I often bring them along to meetings. If I can comfortably bring them into my workspace, it says a lot for the company." He's a fan of the Est Est Est concept and its relaxed, informal air.

Donald is keen to take the stuffiness away from dining out, by encouraging young patrons to experiment with unfamiliar dishes in an environment that is welcoming and receptive to their needs. "It's a challenge I am satisfied to take on - achieving the balance of atmosphere, food and comfort," he says. "My own experience with kids made me more aware of their needs and I've translated what I've learned into the workplace.

"My vision, beliefs and ideals are exactly the same as those of the managing director, Derek Lilley. I totally support the ethos of Est Est Est. We have to develop and maximise the opportunities with children. Market forces and the changing economy have forced pubs and restaurants to re-evaluate their stance regarding children. I believe it has created a more sympathetic hearing toward children, with the result of a more tolerant atmosphere in the dining rooms," he adds, thoughtfully.

Donald is on an urgent mission to create consistency within the chain. He wants to take staff training to new highs, to ensure that they are relaxed and confident dealing with children and adults alike. Individuality is important, and different cultures and personalities create a rounded facet to the restaurant scene, but high standards must be maintained at all costs.

Donald is passionate about the business, and pleased with the changes he has seen take place in an industry he is proud to belong to. "If we treat people fairly - staff and customers - we reap the rewards," he says. "My ultimate dream in a restaurant is to perfect the mix of business and family so all feel comfortable together."

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