Beware: Merlot mania
When something in California is described as "hot", it's really hot. At the moment, Merlot is the vinous equivalent of John Travolta: forgotten for years and then, suddenly, a superstar again.
A decade ago, there were only a handful of Merlots in the USA, but today there are 325. It has become the USA's fourth biggest selling varietal, and plantings have more than quadrupled, particularly in Napa and the Central Valley.
Despite this level of growth, supply can't keep up with demand, so fleets of tankers have had to be driven up from Chile to help fill the gap.
The grape had initially been planted in Napa to round out Cabernet, but three factors turned it into a varietal of its own: a TV programme convinced Americans that red wine was good for them; a stylistic change in Californian cuisine demanded a soft, fruity wine; and much of the Californian vineyard had to be replanted, after phylloxera B hit rootstocks. Out went Sauvignon Blanc, in came Merlot, and the world, allegedly, went crazy.
An accessible alternative
But Sir Peter Michael, the owner of a winery in California and the Vineyard restaurant in Stockcross, Berkshire, is not convinced by this Merlot mania. "Merlot's growth has been a steady development and a recognition of the need for a different style of wine. This is in keeping with people's desire for an early-drinking style, rather than a wine that has to be cellared for 10 years.
"Merlot is a nice alternative to the huge, tannic Cabernets, and it not only goes with the new West Coast food, but appeals to women drinkers."
But how does it go down in the UK? "People who are not into red wines tend to prefer lighter, softer flavours with softer tannins - Merlot fits the bill," says Olivier Merotto, sommelier at the Oxo Tower. "But it's only since the US took off that it has grown here. Californian wines are in demand at this restaurant because everyone is raving about them. Initially, the demand came from visiting Americans."
The new wave of Merlot falls in two camps: serious wines from the top estates and light, low-priced wines from the Central Valley. The serious wines may claim to take Château Pétrus as their spiritual mentor, but they are not copies. Different climate, soils and trelliswork, as well as younger vines and fewer clones, mean the wines are richer and riper than Merlots from, say, the Pomerol region of Bordeaux. Wine-makers who are trying to capture Merlot's silky, plummy beauty need to work hard in the vineyard, reducing yields and testing clones, to try to get the same complexity in their wines.
Taking time to develop
Dan Duckhorn reckons it will be another 30 years before the formula is right. The trouble is that many top-end Merlots appear to be made in the same way as Cabernet, which doesn't do it any favours.
They are high in alcohol - 14.5% abv is not uncommon - and are very ripe and fat. It would also appear that some winemakers leave the wine for a long time on its skins, which may give colour but also contributes over assertive tannins.
When the wines are aged for too long, all pretensions to elegance are forgotten. Some wines, such as Shafer, Stag's Leap, Frog's Leap and Swanson, have real complexity, but they are the exception. Although demand is for soft, fruity wines, most top wines are nothing of the sort.
Sadly, it's not much better at the bottom end of the price scale, where Merlot is made to a characterless formula. There are exceptions to this, including Fetzer's Eagle Peak and Stag's Leap's new Hawk Crest blend.
Even though there isn't much easy-drinking Merlot about, the craze continues. In the USA, if it's got Merlot on the label, it will sell. In a blind tasting of 25 Merlots available in the UK, more than half were awarded one or more stars - a pretty high score. The best of the lighter wines would go well with simple foods, while the bigger wines would be at their best with roasts and more complex flavours, such as lamb or duck.
Merotto thinks Merlot is more versatile than Cabernet. "The softer tannins mean Merlot is easier to match," he says. "Because the variety makes soft, sweet wine, it can fit a wider spectrum of foods."
Although Michael still prefers to use the variety as a blending component in his winery, he will be including some Merlots on the vineyard's wine list, to match the restaurant's French-style, Californian-influenced approach.
Too bulky by the glass?
However, while some of the wines performed well in a tasting, they didn't do as well when drunk by the glass. Their sheer bulk meant they were lifeless on the palate, which raises doubts about their compatibility with food.
Michael agrees: "It's interesting that the best wines are all from producers who are trying to get lower levels of alcohol. I am dismayed at the [US] trend of recommending wines with up to 17% abv. What's the point of that? You can only drink half a glass."
The need for lower alcohol and better balance is fundamental to Merotto. "I don't think an over-fruity wine is enjoyable. A wine must have balance and sufficient structure to back the fruit up, otherwise it will become boring. That means you have to choose your Merlot carefully. There are a lot to look at - and some good ones."
But can you afford to put them on the list? Californian wine is not cheap, especially Merlot, which is fashionable. "It is difficult to find a good-value bottle," says Merotto. "But if you look hard, you will find wines that can go on the list at £30."
The lesson is: don't believe the hype. Take time to hunt out the fine examples that are available - and there are some good ones out there.
