Boheme rhapsody

Terrine of pork and lentils with celeriac rémoulade, £4.50

Artichoke, pumpkin and spinach tart, £4.95

Confit leg of duck, ratatouille of winter vegetables, £9.95

Shank of lamb, cassoulet beans and persillade, £10.50

Fillet of beef on roast shallots with slow-baked garlic, £11.50

Chocolate beignets with clotted cream, £3.95

Pear and almond frangipane, £3.95

Apple tart, £3.95

WHEN the sun sets, candles make up most of the lighting at Café Boheme - but then it's none too bright during the day. Customers are a happy mix of grungy students and Joseph-clad media types, as well as the odd suit and pink rinse.

"I think the secret to Café Boheme's success is that it's a chameleon - it appeals to everyone," says owner Nick Jones. After seven years in Soho, where it has become an institution, the concept has now been extended to Oxford - Café Boheme opened at the end of November in Forte's townhouse hotel, the Eastgate.

Those who know the Soho version may wonder how the nicotine-stained walls, scuffed wooden tables and chairs, not to mention the definite "edge" of the place, transferred to sleepy, comparatively straight-laced Oxford. But no fear, Café Boheme has grown up a bit.

"We've taken a fresh look at things," says manager Matt Thuys. Walls are cream, wood is polished and, unlike the Soho version that stays up all night (from Thursday to Saturday), the doors close at 1am. "But I think that's pretty late for Oxford," he adds.

The Oxford branch is also responsible for the Eastgate's entire food and beverage operation, because it now occupies what used to be the hotel's dining room. In fact the 150-seat Café Boheme sprawls across virtually the whole ground floor of the hotel.

Unlike London, there is no room on the pavement for more seating, although floor-length windows will concertina in the warmer weather, says Thuys.

Although the menu retains much of its London character, the wine list is completely new. Twenty whites and 20 reds from a handful of suppliers are offered alongside the frosted pints of Stella Artois that dominate the drinks sales.

Head chef is Neil Savage, who serves up the solidly French bistro fare with help from his 10-strong brigade. It is too early to judge which dishes sell best in Oxford, says Thuys, who launched the original Café Boheme.

He expects the menu will follow a similar pattern to London, where the top best-sellers are moules mariniÁ¤res (£5.20), grilled sirloin steak and chips (£8.95), calves' liver, crushed parsnips and deep-fried onions (£9.95) and the "market fresh" fish of the day.

Savage uses local suppliers wherever possible and can be found scouring the market in Oxford most mornings for other fresh produce.

An average lunch is 80 covers, with up to 150 for dinner. Average spend is £15, including a glass of wine. Most customers order just two courses, says Thuys. There are plenty of desserts to choose from, though, and the crÁ¤me brÁ±lée is the most popular order. On the breakfast front - Café Boheme opens at 8am - the full English tops the bill (£5.95). n

Café Boheme, 73, High Street, Oxford, OX1 4BE. Tel: 01865 245858