British school
Selling pictures is what Sotheby's is famous for; people flock to its New Bond Street headquarters in London to buy them. So why, if the public is willing to spend thousands of pounds on a picture, should it not sit down and celebrate over lunch?
The chairman of Sotheby's, Alfred Taubman, had the idea of bringing in a self-service canteen featuring British cooking. But then Andrew Campbell, who was brought in as a consultant, suggested that a "proper" restaurant should be the order of the day.
Campbell started work on the project in November 1995, when builders had already begun preparatory work on the self-service kitchen. Initially, the plan had been for the Sotheby's staff canteen to run the new 40-seat outlet, but this idea was shelved in favour of a separate kitchen.
A franchise operation was considered and rejected, as senior directors within the company began to show a clear preference for a smart, upmarket restaurant that would maintain the existing customer base, draw in new customers and succeed in a limited space. This had to be, they decided, a home-grown operation.
The aim was to serve fresh, seasonal food in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. The new restaurant also had to be a destination dining-spot.
As a result, relaxed shoppers now indulge in lengthy lunches alongside more businesslike customers attracted by the fast and efficient service. Décor is establishment - leather banquettes, lots of linen - but nevertheless quite modern.
Architect Adam Zombroy Moldovan has used mirrors and a limestone floor to good effect - the restaurant is cool and modern with a restrained, old-world air.
All staff on board
Menu prices offer good value - almost all first courses are well under £6, main courses rarely above £10. The lunch menu changes daily; breakfast and tea remain the same.
Restaurant manager Sally Heyes came on board at the end of January, with head chef Caroline Crumby and second chef Shonagh Shand joining at the end of February. Three waiting staff were taken on as well as a third chef.
Building work was falling progressively behind schedule, so the opening date was pushed back from March to the end of April. This was preceded by a two-week soft opening to Sotheby's staff on 9 April. "An invaluable period," says Heyes. "It gave us useful comment and a chance to get everything running smoothly."
Training has been high on Heyes' list of priorities from the start: "All floor staff get two hours a week, and then every two months or so we do an intensive week of one hour a day." In an industry renowned for its lack of training, this has proved quite an attraction for staff.
At the end of March, the kitchen team began work with consultants on developing dishes to run through the summer period.
Initially, they talked about influences, favourite chefs, restaurants, ingredients. They compiled a list of dishes that reflected something of the intended style, and then set about the complicated and sometimes painful task of weeding out the less successful ideas. Nothing unusual in that, you may think, but at Sotheby's everyone is encouraged to contribute ideas, as part of the family philosophy running through the company.
This led to a long gestation period, which both chefs felt was invaluable in terms of highlighting strengths and weaknesses as well as building up loyalty from the Sotheby's staff, many of whom now regularly use the restaurant.
The lobster landmark
It was during this time that chairman Taubman arrived from New York bearing news of one of his favourite lunchtime treats. He was brandishing two lobster club sandwiches from a deli just off Wall Street, kept fresh in a doggy-bag during the flight - a door-stop of lobster, brioche, bacon, lettuce, tomato and lots of mayo. "I think we need to have a sandwich like this on the menu," he said.
The following day, after trying out their own version, it was on sale for £9.50, and has remained on the menu ever since.
Pasta was excluded as not being British, as was risotto, although this may well change on future menus. Vegetarians were given due attention, and a main-course salad (£8.95), changing daily, became a feature on the three-course, three-choice menu. With winter coming, chive cràpes of artichoke and girolle mushrooms with rocket salad (£9.50) has been added to the menu.
"As we worked throughout April, doing lunches for Sotheby's staff and developing dishes, the British theme began to be more loosely interpreted," Crumby explains. This was partly due to the weather and partly the clear preference for lighter dishes.
Consequently, menus make much use of fish, fresh herbs, lots of marinated meat - pigeon, quail and lamb - and extensive use of the grill, "food I really enjoy cooking," she says.
British culinary heritage may be based on roast beef, bacon and mushy peas, but salads, olive oil and grilled vegetables are some of the preferred options at Sotheby's.
Small, specialist producers are favoured when sourcing ingredients. Smoked salmon comes direct from Pinneys of Scotland, Dumfries, (01576 300401); bacon and ham from Sandridge Farm, Wiltshire (01380 850304); bread from De Gustibus in Oxford (01844 214040); and ice-cream from Alder Carr Farm, Suffolk (01993 881263).
"Initially, some of the delivery costs were a real hurdle," says Crumby, "but things have settled down well and in most cases we have come to a good compromise."
General feedback from Sotheby's staff, although at times contradictory, was proving useful. As a result, some of the furnishings were altered in the restaurant, and pictures from the current sale were hung on the previously bare walls. These now change regularly, depending on what is happening in the sale-rooms.
The Cafe opened on 30 April for breakfast. Coffee (£1.15), croissants (£1.50), muesli with fresh fruit (£2), and Greek yoghurt with honey and dried apricots (£2.30) are served throughout the morning.
Lunch is from 12.30pm to 2.30pm and the great British institution of afternoon tea - in both mini form (which offers tea-cake, scone, jam, cream and tea £3.75), and major form (the same, but with cucumber, ham and egg sandwiches and cake £8.50) - continues in the afternoon, along with plates such as Welsh rarebit (£2.25), ham and pickles (£5.50), and lobster club sandwich (£6.50).
Lunchtime covers started at 20 on the first day and rose to a steady 35-40 in the first two weeks after opening. With extra tables in the reception area, this figure is now a fairly constant 45-50. Breakfast numbers around 15, and afternoon tea up to 25.
The main problem during the first three weeks centred around portion sizes being slightly too small. Hungry art dealers and lunching ladies inhabit two extreme ends of the eating spectrum. "On the basis that most customers probably ate out a great deal, we took the view in the kitchen that strong, bright flavours were called for," explains Caroline Crumby. "Feedback suggested we were about 20% out and portions were adjusted up accordingly."
Reflecting the current importance of food in our culture, art galleries and museums are increasingly tacking cafés on to their main operation. Sotheby's Cafe - which aims for a gross profit of 60-65% - along with London's Blueprint Café at the Design Museum and the River Café, have shown that institutions can reap substantial rewards by making food integral to the business.
