Caterer and Hotelkeeper – 30621

britain claims a renaissance, not a birth

THIS country owes Raymond Blanc a great debt, and it is a fitting tribute to the master that so many of his graduates will be joining him for Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons' 10th birthday celebrations this month.

In the 18th century, Britain was on a gastronomic high and the envy of Europe. Like the new breed of top British chefs today, many talented cooks of the time enjoyed a certain celebrity. For instance, there were court cooks such as Patrick Lamb and his protégé Robert Smith in the early 1700s, and John Farley, famous principal cook at the London Tavern, who wrote The London Art of Cookery, first published in 1783.

Such was England's culinary reputation - and Farley's in particular - that when the first public restaurant opened in Paris in 1782, it was named the Grande Taverne de Londres. It became a standard-bearer for English food in the French capital and was imitated by other fashionable restaurants, which were known as "les tavernes anglaises".

What we are seeing today is the passing of an era of French gastronomic hegemony in Britain, which began with Antonin CarÁ me in Regency England. Raymond Blanc is almost certainly the last great chef in a long line of French masters, and it is largely thanks to the likes of him and the Roux brothers that we are enjoying a renaissance - not a birth - in this country, after a lapse of almost 200 years. Let us not forget, Britain has a long and noble culinary tradition stretching back to the crusades.

Robert May, arguably our greatest chef, wrote The Accomplisht Cook, which was first published in 1660. It is a classic text with more than 1,000 recipes and a facsimile copy was recently published by Prospect Books (£27.50). All British chefs should read it and start to rethink our turgid mix'n'match obsession with every national cuisine except our own. If Paul Heathcote - one of Raymond Blanc's most illustrious students - can win two Michelin stars on a British ticket, others should give ita try.

Kit Chapman

The Castle Hotel,

Taunton,

Somerset.

get more from the careers show

AFEW comments on the excellent Caterer Careers and Recruitment Show, in reply to "Grim for Graduates" (Letters, 20 October).

As a mature and long-serving member of the industry (29 years), now looking for a fresh direction, I approached the show with some caution, believing an age bias would exist - but not at all.

I visited most stands: Stena Sealink gave me support and advice; Country Club Hotels detailed its and Whitbread's other branded names, expectations and development and offered specific contacts; and at the Hilton stand I filled out details on their body bank (a good idea) and received a letter offering an interview within 40 hours of attending the show.

My message is simple: don't expect anything for nothing. You can only expect to receive, having given in the first place.

Mike Mason

The Green Man Hotel,

Wembley,

Middlesex.

contract offers no protection

IN REPLY to David Woods' letter (3 November) regarding TUPE regulations, while I am in full agreement with his comments and opinions, unfortunately it would appear that staff employed by a contractor who retains the contract after re-tender are unprotected, as in my case.

Having held the position of head chef for some years at a local government establishment in Chelmsford, Essex, I was forced into redundancy by the existing contractor when my position was restructured from "head chef" to "kitchen supervisor" with an identical job description but more than 30% reduction in salary.

All comments and advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

Derek Charman

Felsted,

Essex.

service with an efficient smile

I DAREN'T do other than agree with Bob Gledhill, northern editor of Caterer, who argues the need to change from the archaic Upstairs, Downstairs culture (Viewpoint, 29 September). I represent a family-owned hotel in the far-flung North where we too provide a personal service to our guests.

Sadly, we are unable to boast a 96% room occupancy, as does George Goring (Reader Diaries, 3 November) but we do enjoy the benefits of BS5750 and IIP, which Mr Goring feels are not right for family-run businesses.

Come, on George, think about it - BS5750 and IIP really do make sense. The hotel, as a result of compliance, is efficient, is able to prove due diligence both to the customer and on the day the inspector calls. There is no loss of that much-appreciated individual customer care that has made hotels such as the Swan so successful.

Goring is synonymous with quality, so don't let us, the independents, down; go for it, you won't regret it. The magic will still be there, but the illusion will be even more spectacular. Believe me.

JA Bertlin,

Manager,

Swan Hotel,

Newby Bridge,

Cumbria.

northern ireland ripe for tourists

I HAVE just returned from speaking at a conference in Northern Ireland. There were 370 delegates - probably the largest conference there in 25 years - from 17 European countries, all educationalists in hotel colleges, or students.

It was the most successful conference I have ever attended, with a great atmosphere during both work and social hours.

The good news is that the event was run entirely by students and a handful of lecturers at the Northern Ireland Hotel & Catering College in Portrush.

They cooked and served about 400 meals twice a day to very high standard. The logistics of transferring the various delegates - arriving on different flights - to their hotels, then to the conference every morning and back every evening were daunting. They carried it out with tact and efficiency. I have a memory of one young student shepherding delegates on to a coach in the pouring rain. She was soaked but kept on smiling.

With talent like this coming out of Northern Ireland, tourism could boom within a few years.

Melvyn Greene

Melvyn Green & International Associates,

New Malden,

Surrey.

catering for disabled guests

HAVING had what would have been a life-long career in hotel and catering cut short by becoming tetraplegic, I am only too aware of how difficult it is to find suitable accommodation for disabled people and their families.

It was therefore a pleasure to nominate the Holiday Property Bond as aneventual winner of a Holiday Care Award, Best National/International Group in the Tourist Industry, on 8 November.

The company addresses the needs of the disabled in many ways - particularly the universal issue that many disabled people use wheelchairs. It has, therefore, provided wheel-in showers with suitable wheelchair shower chairs as opposed to static shower seats or baths in most of its disabled apartments.

There is still some confusion over which facilities are most suitable in a bathroom for a disabled person. However, the type of provision that it has made can easily be given without too much work and can then still be used by lesser disabled and able-bodied guests.

If only the large hotel chains, other hotel proprietors and the hospitality industry as a whole could provide such facilities, life could be so much easier for many disabled people and their families.

David Croft,

St Austell,

Cornwall.