Constant as the northern star, true fix'd and resting
Since 1974, when it was first published in its present form in the UK, the Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland has held doyens of the culinary craft in thrall (see page 5).
M-Day approaches and every top-flight chef goes through the ritual agony of wondering "will I, won't I?". Will I win my first star? Will I keep the one I got last year? Will I go up a notch, or will I slip back? Will I gain the honour of three stars and share accolades with the best?
Gaining a Michelin star (or two or three) is widely regarded as the highest accolade a chef can achieve in Europe and, for this reason, the guides are revered throughout the industry. Michelin has a no-nonsense reputation for judging restaurants entirely on what is put on the plate and how it is served. As Marco Pierre White once said (in his book Wild Food fromLand and Sea), the Michelin guides "don't criticise anybody… don't make facetious comments… don't run people down… don't tell people how to run their businesses." They are, he said, guides in the true meaning of the word.
The gravitas attached to the star system is based on the strict anonymity of the inspections that lead to a rating. Chefs cook food, waiters serve customers and Michelin inspectors arrive and leave like anyone else, their presence undetected.
David Everitt-Matthias, gaining his second star at Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham this year, was inspected several times but only once guessed that an inspector was present. In a case such as this, Michelin's credibility is beyond question.
What happens, however, if a chef enters into a dialogue with Michelin before or during the inspection process? Where does that leave the independent, anonymous process? If chefs can't ask to be included in the guides, surely they shouldn't be allowed to withdraw at their own request?
Chefs who say that they wish to withdraw may be doing so for the most honourable of reasons - a change of direction or they may have the prescience to see that the demand for three-star food is on the decline. No one can blame them for wanting to relinquish their stars voluntarily. And Michelin may feel that it is rewarding honesty by agreeing to their wishes.
But the integrity of the guides depends on a consistent approach. Should the temperature of the water in London not have been tested before judgement passed? The retiring restaurants in question have, after all, excellent teams in the kitchen. Who knows what could have happened? London may well have retained at least one three-starred restaurant, instead of having to wait until next year.
In future, perhaps Michelin should not be tempted to muddy the waters. It shouldn't let chefs judge for themselves. They might be wrong.
Forbes Mutch
Editor
Caterer & Hotelkeeper
