English and Welsh wines chase quality
Compiled by Joe Hyam
What are the chances that England and Wales may one day produce wine of real quality? Our most widely planted grape variety remains the unexciting hybrid Müller-Thurgau, which accounts for 16% of the total 1035.36ha of vineyard.
The other most-used varieties are also hybrids produced, like Müller-Thurgau, to cope with a cool, sometimes damp climate: Reichensteiner, Seyval Blanc, Bacchus, Madeleine Angevine and Schönburger.
Although these make wines with a full bouquet and a light fruity quality, it is hard to be convinced that they will impress in their own right in competition with classic varieties.
Yet there is hope. We have it from the latest figures released by the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (MAFF), that there are now as many as 42.96ha of Pinot Noir and 28.43ha of Chardonnay in England and Wales. There is even some Pinot Gris and Reisling.
Anyone who has tasted the superb still and sparkling wines of Denbies (0306 876616) near Dorking, Surrey, will know that the highest standards of wine-making are possible. And that the classic wine varieties can work even if yields are low. The same goes for the small, beautifully maintained property of Wicken Hall in East Anglia (0359 250287). Both are notable for the welcome they offer visitors and for supporting their wine-growing enterprise with outstanding restaurants.
Altogether, according to Maff's figures, there are 436 active vineyards in England and Wales. Of those, 148 incorporate vineyards that produced 1.75 million litres in 1993. Many have won medals in international competitions and there are signs that higher standards are constantly being achieved.
