Food from further afield
HERE are two more ingredients to add to the melting-pot of London's restaurants: Mongolian and Egyptian food.
Mongolian, in this context, describes a style of food preparation rather than an authentic culinary culture. David Franks, creator, chef-proprietor and manager of Stir Crazy, is, I think, one of the first to introduce the Mongolian barbecue to Britain. It is a large, semi-circular raised iron griddle, which the cook stands behind, and using large chopsticks deftly and quickly stir-fries the food.
You choose your own food from a selection of thinly sliced meats, fish, shellfish and vegetables, and season it as you wish, handing the bowl of food over to be cooked while you wait.
I first came across the Mongolian barbecue in the Philippines a few years ago, and I enjoyed the variety of ingredients and the fresh flavours of food that is quickly cooked.
For the Mongolian barbeque to work, the quality of the raw materials is of prime importance. There are no extraneous frills and garnishes; what you have put in your procelain bowl is what the chef cooks, and what you eat.
A visit to the food bar in the evening costs ú5.95, and ú4.95 at lunchtime. The Stir Crazy Feast, allowing unlimited helpings, costs ú8.95, and ú6.95 at lunchtime and on Sunday and Monday evening. Under five-year-olds eat for free; under 10-year-olds eat for half price.
This cheap and cheerful experience is not marred by an expensive wine list. Every bottle is under ú10 and the list includes St Chinian from South-west France for ú7.50 and Riverland Semillon Chardonnay for ú8.95. The list of beers is just as eclectic and cosmopolitan as the starters and puddings.
A taste of Egypt is to be found at the Valley of the Kings in the Elizabetta Hotel, which is said to be London's first authentic Egyptian restaurant. The chef, Esmat Farid, was born in Cairo but has worked in Britain for 20 years.
Although the reviews of the restaurant made much of the "undiscovered" dishes - the molokhia, baba ghanoug and the various tagen - those familiar with Turkish and Maghrebi food will recognise many of the dishes on the menu: the tehina salad made with sesame paste for example, the desserts baklawa and konafa, and the koftas, kebabs and mechwi.
The tagen are stews not unlike the Moroccan tagine. Fresh juices and refeshing teas supplement the wine list. o
TABLE: Stir Crazy,
Camden High Street, London NW1
Starters, all ú1.95
Guacamole and taco chips
Corn on the cob
Main courseS
Mongolian barbecue (vegetarians can choose tofu instead of fish and meat)
Desserts, all Áº2.25
Banoffi pie and cream
Ice-cream with hot cherries
Barbecued bananas with lemon or honey
Covers: 45
Chef/patron/manager: David Franks
The Valley of the Kings,
Elizabetta Hotel, Cromwell Road, London SW5
Appetizers
Foul medames: Egyptian beans, seasoned with lemon juice and olive oil, Áº2.85
Koshri: brown lentils, rice, macaroni, fried onion served with hot tomato sauce, Áº3.25
Bessara: ancient recipe of ground beans cooked with herbs and spices, Áº3.25
Soup
Kawareh: calves' foot soup, Áº2.75
Fish
Samak bolty: St. Peter's fish marinated with lemon juice, garlic, spices and fried, Áº9.50
Tagan samak (Alexandria): baked huss with onion, garlic, green pepper, coriander, tomato, Egyptian herbs, Áº10.90
Main courses
Tagen potatoes (Al Karnak): sliced potatoes with onions and tomatoes, cooked in the oven with knuckle of lamb, Áº9.50
Tagen tourley (Nefertiti): fresh- cut mixed vegetables cooked with oriental spices and tomato sauce, served with lamb, Áº10.25
Charcoal grill
Kofta mechweh: minced lamb with chopped onions and spices grilled on skewers, Áº9.50
Chef specialities
Valley of the Kings: vine leaves, courgettes, tomatoes, peppers, aubergines filled with rice, minced lamb, onion, parsley and tomato, Áº12.50
Kofta dawoud pacha: meat balls in tomato sauce, Áº8.75
Kabab Halla: cubes of lamb cooked with onion and spices with a thick sauce, Áº10
Sweets
Om ali: milk and pastry with nuts and sultanas, Áº3.50
Selection of Egyptian sweets; baklawa, konafa, basbousa, Áº3.25
A la carte menu
Covers: 75
Chef: Esmat Farid
