Fully booked

01 January 2000
Fully booked

There are not many grander interiors than the Lyceum Library Restaurant in Liverpool. Housed in a 200-year-old building built by Sir Thomas Harrison, the restaurant occupies the library of the former Lyceum Gentleman's Club. The Grade II- listed building had been earmarked for demolition for 20 years until it was saved and converted to a restaurant complex in 1994 by father-son partners Mike and Rob Gutmann.

The Lyceum Café Bar opened first, in December 1994, in the room next to the library.

The 120-seat Library Restaurant has a 70ft domed ceiling, Georgian columns and elaborate plasterwork. Refurbishment has been modern but sympathetic, carried out by rising young Liverpudlian architect Colin Harwood, whose scheme was inspired by 1950s Italian rationalism. With a 100-year-old grand piano as part of the decor, there is live jazz or classical music most evenings.

Head chef Simon Collard heads up a kitchen brigade of seven chefs, who cook for both the bar and restaurant. The 110-seat Café Bar serves fast, fresh food from 9am to 8pm, when the room reverts to serving just drinks.

Breakfast is available until 11am, when a simple menu, from which customers can order anything from a cup of coffee to a couple of courses, comes into operation. Typical dishes include cajun chicken, fresh mussels, sausage and mash, burgers and salads. The Café Bar has a late drinks licence and is open until 1am.

The Library's à la carte and table d'hôte menus, offer a mix of classical and contemporary food. Dishes such as roulade of salmon and sole with chive butter sauce and steak and kidney pudding, which make occasional appearances, represent Collard's earlier career - he spent three-and-a-half years at the Naval and Military Club in London. A more modern approach can be seen in dishes such as fillet of cod with tapenade, and scallops in tempura batter, tomato and chilli sauce.

When changing the à la carte menu every two to three months, Collard will assess which dishes have been selling well and use the main ingredient as the basis for a new dish. For example, sea bass appears on the present menu with saffron noodles and a gazpacho sauce, whereas it had previously been served with pasta and a tomato and pepper sauce.

Restaurant manager Sarah Howarth and her staff - as well as the kitchen brigade - all have an input to new menus. Dishes are tried, tested and discussed before the final menu is confirmed. "It is important that we get the view of the restaurant staff as they have more idea of what the customers like," says Collard.

The à la carte offers a choice of six starters (£3.75-£7.95), seven main courses (£11.25-£17.45), five desserts (£3.50-£5.25) and a selection of English cheeses, celery, nuts and oatmeal biscuits for £4.75. Average spend from this menu is £35, which Collard describes as "quite expensive for Liverpool".

The table d'hôte menu changes fortnightly and costs £12.95 for a two-course lunch and £16.95 for a two-course dinner.

The 45-strong wine list covers all regions. Four house wines are offered - two French and two South African (£9.95 for a bottle or £1.65 for a glass). The two white are Barton & Guestier vin du pays Chardonnay 1993 and 1994 and Drostdy Hos Chenin Blanc 1994; while the reds are Barton & Guestier Merlot 1993 and 1994 and Drostdy Hos Shiraz/Pinotage 1993 and 1994.

The Lyceum, Bold Street, Liverpool. Tel: 0151-709 7097

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