Gallic charmed
Nigel Davies' love affair with the food of south-west France began 15 years ago between the covers of Paula Wolfert's 1983 classic book, The cooking of south-west France.
He remembers falling for the strong flavours, simplicity and seasonality that characterise dishes from the region and, despite speaking no French, lost no time in getting to the heart of the matter. His two years in Bordeaux (one under Christian Clement at Restaurant Dubern, the other under Francis Garcia at Le Chapon Fin) remain among the most influential, and he took much of what he learnt to subsequent positions.
He was head chef at the now closed Sud Ouest restaurant in Knightsbridge ("I re-enacted what I'd learnt in France"); the Ivy ("I learnt to see food from the customers' point of view and see that calves' kidney cooked in its own fat might not appeal"); and Knightsbridge brasserie, St Quentin.
A brief stint at the Gazelle d'Or in Morocco left Davies enthusiastic for the flavours and slow-cooking techniques of that country, too.
Now at the Halcyon's 55-seat restaurant, Aix, Davies has created a menu that brings together his food passions. Foie gras, confit duck and poulet des Landes are finding favour with a discerning Holland Park clientele prepared to spend an average of £28 at lunch and £42 at dinner, including wine.
The foie gras terrine (£14.75) is the most popular starter and prepared in the way Davies learnt in Bordeaux. He explains: "I put the liver in water, milk and a bit of salt until soft, then de-vein it and season with Armagnac, Sauternes and salt and pepper and let it macerate overnight. Then it's vacuum-packed and cooked for 18 minutes at 68ºC-70ºC."
His favourite starter is the Spanish Joselito gran reserva ham with celeriac remoulade (£12.25). "It doesn't test the skills of the kitchen but the quality of that product is amazing."
Among the main courses, Davies highlights the Cornish cod with sweet pepper and tomato compote (£14.75). "It's very seasonal, very vivid and the peppers are slightly spiced, so there are good flavours." The roast rack of lamb with herbes de Provence, confit garlic and shallots (£17.75) is the best seller, however.
About a third of dinner guests have dessert, most choosing the Aix chocolate pudding with crème fraîche (£5.25), although the crema Catalana (£4.95) - a Spanish crème brûlée with lemon and cinnamon served in the traditional terracotta dish - is his personal favourite.
A separate selection of seasonal dishes currently includes oysters (£18.50 a dozen, £9.75 for six); roast wild duck with Savoy cabbage, wild mushrooms and blueberries (£15.50); and matelote of eels from La Barthelasse (£16.95). The eels, from La Barthelasse island in the Rhône river, are braised in a red wine fish stock and served in thick slices with glazed button onions, leeks and parsley chiffonade.
On busy days, the brigade of five will serve 25 lunches and 40 dinners, but Davies wants to raise that to 30-plus lunches and to be cooking 40 dinners regularly. He's hoping that a weekly changing, two-course set menu priced at £10 will attract local as well as hotel business. "I'm not obsessive about Michelin stars or AA rosettes, but I want to put the buzz back into the Halcyon and for the restaurant to be a local one, not too formal."
Aix, Halcyon hotel, 81 Holland Park, London W11 3RZ. Tel: 020 7727 7288
