Germany ready for revival
By Jim Budd
Someone's misfortune is always someone else's business opportunity. That maxim undoubtedly sums up the success of many a business guru - but it also applies very fittingly to fine German wines.
Sales of German wine, especially at the cheaper end, are falling through the floor. For the first time at Sainsbury's, Australia is outselling Germany. German wines are deeply unfashionable. However, there are some delicious bottles about and, because they are so unfashionable, they are available at very reasonable prices. There has also been a remarkable run of fine vintages from 1988. So, is it time to take a fresh look at Germany?
Part of the problem arises from the disastrous 1971 wine laws, which linked the best sites and wines with large regions churning out industrial quantities of alcoholic sugar water. For the time being, forget the complicated system of vineyard sites, and instead use the name of a conscientious grower as the key to finding good German wines.
My last two visits to Germany, admittedly brief stays, suggest that growers in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and the Pfalz, as well as some in the Nahe, are making very exciting wines. Sadly, my impression is that too many growers in the Rheingau are resting on their reputations.
Georg Breuer is one who stands out (Martinez, 01423 501783). Leaving southern Germany, in particular Baden, aside - its warmer climate makes it atypical - Riesling is the most successful and classic variety. A late ripener, it needs a good south-facing slope to ripen properly, as typified by the extraordinarily steep, slate slopes of the Mosel.
Freddy Price is a long time champion of good-quality German wine and he handles some very fine estates. The Mosel-Saar-Ruwer produces exceptionally delicate Rieslings, low in alcohol and with a sensational balance between the fruit and acidity. Price has wines from Schloss Saarstein (from £67.39) and Max Fred Richter (from £44.67). Contact him at Longford Wines (0181-997 7889).
Ernst Loosen from Bernkastel is a great media favourite: he makes good wine and is rude about fellow producers who do not meet his high standards. Stockists include Tanners (01743 232400), or contact Walter Siegel (01256 701101).
Other producers worth investigating include Robert Eymael and JJ Prum in the Mosel, and Von Hovel in the Saar (FE May Fine Wines: 01628 522357).
Price has just taken on the wines from the greatly respected Lingenfelder estate in the Pfalz. Rainer Lingenfelder is one of Germany's best wine producers, making fine Scheurebes and good Pinot Noir, as well as excellent Rieslings. Prices start from £55.42 for the Vinehaus range, made from bought-in grapes, and £67.39 for the estate wines. He also has Paul Anheuser wines from the Nahe.
Many of Germany's leading estates belong to the premium growers' association VDP, and they use a black eagle insignia on their bottles. The Rheingau was the founding branch and this year celebrates its centenary with an auction of rare wines at Wiesbaden on 15 November. Wines back to 1865 will be sold.
