Grange
Proprietor Igi Gonzalez holds the fort at Overton Grange while head chef Adrian Jones takes a break.
The sun has not risen yet but Dublin's Fish Market is bustling. Adrian Jones, head chef at Overton Grange, is watching as six maroon crates of John Dory are auctioned off.
"What'll you give me, do I hear 3? No. 2.75? 2.50? 2.40? Thank you, sir." The auctioneer's patter is slick.
The first box with the largest fish sells for IR£2.70, while those with smaller fish sell for IR£2.25. Jones can barely believe his eyes. "I was being asked £5.80 before Christmas."
Jones has come to Dublin, courtesy of the Irish Sea Fisheries Board (Bord Iascaigh Mhara - BIM), to look at the Irish fish market, talk to suppliers and, as always, seek inspiration for his cooking at Overton Grange.
The prices at Dublin's market are brilliant, far better than he can obtain in Ludlow, but Jones admits this is due to the fishermen's co-operative selling the fish directly, rather than through a supplier.
The market offers interesting buying tips. John Hackett, marketing assistant, retail, for BIM and previously a fishmonger, points to a crate of plaice. "From the end of December through to March the roe content increases and the meat content is therefore less," he says. So for best value for money Hackett says it is better to buy in April when there is plenty of meat and spawning is over. By contrast, haddock is very thin in the period immediately after spawning, giving less value for money.
The market, still held in its original building, draws mostly fishmongers and offers plenty of choice: Dublin Bay prawns, Dover sole, John Dory, ray, cod, plaice, monkfish and squid on the day Jones is present.
Over breakfast Jones wishes he could have bid on the John Dory. "I love the small fish, it's just right for a fillet on the plate."
Another favourite is salmon. Gerry Paterson, group sales manager from Gaelic Seafoods Group, provides a run-down on the Irish salmon market. Ireland produces 15,000 tonnes annually - Paterson says to put this in context Scotland produces 85-90,000 tonnes while Norway, the world's largest supplier, has an output of 300,000 tonnes.
After the market, Jones pays a visit to Clayton Love & Sons, a smoked salmon factory in Dublin. Bryan Love, the proprietor, laughs at the differentiation made between different types of smoked salmon. "Tell me, what is this - Irish smoked or Scottish smoked? There is only one species of Atlantic salmon and that's the same in Ireland as it is in Chile!"
Love allows that Norwegian salmon, which is fed a high protein diet, does produce a different, more oily fish.
Jones finds Love's passion for smoked salmon contagious.
"I really thought it was some of the best smoked salmon I have tasted. Back in the kitchen I look at the quality of the fish and now I notice Norwegian salmon. When you slice it you get an orange oil," he comments.
Some of Love's smoked salmon, including the healthy brown omega and the pelico - with a top skin that is slightly tough from the smoking - is currently being sold minced to an Irish cheese producer at IR£1.50 per kilo. Unminced, Love says he'll sell them for IR50p per kilo and he is looking for a UK distributor to carry this product.
Jones can think of several uses immediately. "You could use this in terrines and soups. At that price it is wonderful for the flavour alone."
Creating new dishes in Overton Grange's kitchen, Jones draws on his Irish expedition and creates a grilled smoked salmon on celeriac tart, which he dedicates to Bryan Love at Clayton Love & Sons.
And, as he is loath to leave out any one fish, he goes for a collective approach with a bouillabaisse sauce for the tart.
