Hidden charms of Alsace

By Joe Hyam

Just as the region of Alsace is cut off from the rest of France by the Vosges mountains, its wines, most of them white, seem to stand apart from the country's longer-established wine-making traditions.

First of all, they are labelled mainly according to grape variety rather than the place where they are made. Alsace's history as a territory often occupied by Germany as well as its use of German grape varieties also emphasises its separateness.

But the dry, concentrated flavours of Alsace wine are part of a French rather than a German tradition. They are perfectly matched with the rich, highly distinctive cuisine of the region. It is hard to think of an onion quiche, pâté de foie gras, choucroute à l'Alsacienne, or a beckenoff pork, beef and lamb casserole without an appropriate Alsace wine.

This leads to the question often asked but seldom answered: Why are Alsace wines not more popular in restaurants? Perhaps it is because it is only relatively recently that Alsace developed its own style of wine making.

Alsace became an Appellation Contrôlée region only in 1962, but it was not until 1983 that the appellation Alsace Grand Cru was established to recognise the most favoured vineyard sites. But whatever the answer, here are wines which you can recommend to customers for their fine bouquet, restrained power and depth of flavour - sometimes spicy, sometimes resonating with mature fruit and acidity.

Today the great varieties of the region - Riesling, Tokay Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Muscat, plus the worthy Sylvaner - produce wines that have enough substance and concentration of flavour to match the richness of pork, lamb and even game, despite being white.

Three wines from the long-established house of René Muré are excellent ambassadors for Alsace, and suit the restaurant wine list well. All are from 1994 vintage. The Gewürztraminer, the best known of Alsace's grape varieties, has the spice and, despite its essential dryness, the hint of sweetness which endears the grape to newcomers. It does not have the "dolly mixture", sweet-shop qualities, which shows the grape at its least attractive. It is listed at a trade price of £68.64 by Joseph Berkmann Wine Cellars (0171-609 4711).

A fine example of the best all-purpose wine of Alsace is Tokay Pinot Gris. Try this mouth-filling, palate-charming production under Muré's Clos St Landelin label and from the grand cru vineyard of Vorbourg. This has perfect balance and an almost viscous quality that adds to its impact. Berkmann lists it at £124.92. It's worth every penny.

From the same grand cru slopes comes Muré's 1994 Riesling. Any customer shy of this grape should be inducted with this wonderfully long-lasting dry wine. It has all the vibrant acidity and tropical fruit with petrolly undertones for which the grape is renowned. It is listed by Berkmann at £105.60.