Hobson's choices
When Philip Hobson was offered the head chef's job at Hunstrete House hotel, he accepted immediately. Having been sous chef at the 60-seat Bristol restaurant under Robert Clayton for three years, up to February 1997, Hobson found himself back in familiar territory in July 2000 after brief stints at Buckland Manor near Broadway and again under Clayton at the Bath Priory hotel.
"It's my first head chef job," says Hobson. "That was enough to deal with without going to a new place, too."
Staff shortages meant that Hobson initially had to spend time recruiting, but he now has a team in place. He says: "I've had a steady brigade for three months [six in the kitchen with one vacancy, plus eight front of house] and I now feel able to experiment and find my own style."
Hobson introduced his own menu from the start, rather than follow the one created by his predecessor. It remains rooted in the classical tradition - Clayton, who trained under Nico Ladenis, is Hobson's main culinary influence - and faithful to core ingredients such as foie gras, scallops, turbot and beef, but certain dishes now have Hobson's stamp of lighter, modern European cooking.
He cites as an example the starter of crispy potato parcel of chicken and wild mushrooms, cepe sauce (£13). "The combination isn't new but I've taken it a step further," he says. "The chicken mousse is wrapped in raw grated potato, which is poached and then roasted off. Nobody told me how to do it but it's popular."
He has also put his mark on the pan-seared foie gras, braised endive, red wine jus, Moscato reduction (£14.50), one of the most popular among the six starters. "The bitterness of the endive works well with the smoothness of the foie gras," he explains.
Among the six main courses, the duck (sautéd breast of Gressingham duck, rosti potatoes, cassis shallot jus, (£25) and the beef (roast fillet of grass-fed Aberdeenshire beef, saladaise potatoes, Madeira jus, £26) are the most popular, though Hobson's own favourite is the roast loin of venison, Savoy cabbage and speck, fondant potatoes, rosemary jus (£25.50). "I love venison," he says. "I always choose that when I eat out."
It's too early to say which of the new puddings, each £9.50, will sell best. Hobson's money is on the warm chocolate fondant with vanilla ice-cream and orange anglaise, though he expects the glazed lemon tart with raspberry sorbet to be popular too. The one that remains from the previous menu is Hobson's own favourite - blackcurrant crème brûlée, liquorice ice-cream, coconut tuiles.
A separate vegetarian menu offers a choice of three starters and three mains, such as a risotto of cepes and truffles (£7.50) or tagliolini with fresh herbs, seasonal vegetables, fine herbs and cream sauce (£13.50). "It makes everyone feel welcome and means we're not throwing a meal together from whatever's in the kitchen," Hobson says.
About 90% of lunch guests - a mix of locals and business people - choose the set menu, which offers a choice of two starters, mains and puddings for £15.95 (two courses) or £19.95 (three courses). Average spend at dinner is around £60 including wine.
Hunstrete House this year lost the Michelin star it first gained in 1996. Hobson wants it back, as well as a fourth AA rosette. "But I don't want my cooking to be clouded by that," he says. "I'm relaxed, happy and cooking well, so we'll see."
Hunstrete House hotel, Pensford, Bristol BS39 4NS. Tel: 01761 490490. www.hunstretehouse.co.uk
