Holding Court
Even for a former Michelin star holder, taking over the kitchen at Mallory Court was a challenge. Janet Harmer learns how Simon Haigh stood up to the task.
Despite Simon Haigh taking up the post of head chef at Mallory Court Country House Hotel and Restaurant in early December last year, a busy Christmas meant that it wasn't until the New Year that he was able to put his own stamp on the menu. "My aim has been to update the menus, as well as ensure that freshness and seasonality are at their essence," he says.
Haigh, who gained a Michelin star during his seven-year tenure at Inverlochy Castle in Fort William, and more recently headed the kitchens at the newly opened Seaham Hall in Seaham, County Durham, is not fazed by moving to an establishment where the food has been lauded for so long. Allan Holland, who died last year, had built up Mallory Court's reputation for fine food since opening the hotel with his partner, Jeremy Mort, 26 years ago. "I like the idea of coming to such a well-established business," says Haigh. "There is an excellent client base here, which I hope to enhance."
So far, both regular and new customers to the 50-seat restaurant appear to be enjoying Haigh's offering. Lunch is a set-price menu - three courses for £25, offering a choice of four dishes at each course. Dishes change daily and include starters such as red mullet escabèche with a saffron dressing, main courses such as breast of guinea fowl with pancetta and wild mushrooms, and such desserts as lemon tart with red fruit sorbet. In the evening the choice is extended to a table d'hôte menu at £37.50 for three courses plus coffee and petits fours, and the à la carte menu offering a choice of six starters, seven main courses and six desserts. Average spend for the 30 weekday covers, rising to 50 at weekends, is £40 per head excluding drink.
Haigh writes his menus in an understated style. "I hate going to a restaurant where the descriptions on the menu are massive, only to be disappointed when the dishes arrive," he says. "Here, we list just the principal ingredients, providing some element of surprise when the dish arrives at the table."
A starter, which appears on the menu as a salad of Skye scallops, lemon oil dressing (£12.50), incorporates a fine brunoise of courgettes, black olives and tomatoes, topped by salad leaves and then a selection of deep-fried crispy vegetables such as aubergines, leeks, courgettes and carrots. The seared scallops are put on top and drizzled with soya juice and lemon oil dressing.
Beef always sells well and is currently listed among the main courses as fillet of Angus beef with a mushroom herb crust, Madeira sauce (£26.50). The fillet is served topped with a little grain mustard, diced field mushrooms cooked in garlic butter, and a Provençale herb crust, accompanied by quenelles of celeriac purée, cocotte potatoes and roasted shallots.
Haigh, currently supported by just three chefs, says that desserts will soon see great change. "A fifth chef who will be taking responsibility for desserts will be joining us soon," he says. For now, a hot passion fruit souffl‚ with its own sorbet (£9.50) is the favourite.
Mallory Court Country House Hotel and Restaurant, Harbury Lane, Bishop's Tachbrook, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire CV33 9QB. Tel: 01926 330214
A selection from the à la carte menu at Mallory Court
Pan-roasted calves' sweetbreads wrapped in Parma ham, asparagus and lentils, £9.50
Goats' cheese ravioli, red wine poached pear and caramelised walnuts, £8.50
Ballotine of foie gras and Wigmore cheese, apples and Calvados-macerated sultanas, £10
Roast loin of venison, quince and a peppery port sauce, £25
Roast saddle of rabbit, truffled risotto, two sauces, £24
Pan-seared sea bass, red wine jus, sweet red onion purée, £26
Roast pear, poached fig pain perdu, caramel ice-cream, £10
Chocolate fondant pudding, pistachio ice-cream, £10.50
Trio of sorbets on fruit minestrone, £9.50
