Jaks of all trades
Offering good value for money in the heart of Chelsea is no mean feat, particularly when you are running a restaurant that also aims to serve good food from scratch using quality ingredients.
This is the raison d'àtre behind Jaks, a 45-seat restaurant in Lower Sloane Street, which is being run by head chef Adrian Jones and restaurant manager Michael Mann on behalf of new owners Justin Wheeler and Christopher Birts, operators of events company Premier Productions.
"Our aim is not to rip people off, but to encourage people to come out to eat and have a good time," says Jones, who previously worked at Chapter Two in Blackheath, south London, alongside Mann. "We're able to keep our prices down, having struck a good deal with our landlord and kept opening costs to a minimum. It also helps that I'm running a small menu, which is changed weekly to take full advantage of the best-priced ingredients on offer."
Only one menu is available. At lunch it is priced at £12.50 for two courses and £15 for three, while dinner sees prices rising to £17.50 and £20 respectively. An optional service charge is listed at the unusually low rate of 6.5%. There is a choice of five dishes at each course, with the occasional special dish on offer, too.
In the eight weeks since opening, Jones has not found a need to repeat any dishes, although he says he would if the request was made.
All dishes are listed on the menu in the straightforward manner in which they are served. Gazpacho, warm goats' cheese is simply that, with the different temperatures of the soup and cheese offering an interesting contrast.
"We like to take dishes that everyone knows and loves, and add a new dimension, but without being gimmicky," says Jones.
So a starter of poached ox tongue with Waldorf salad and warm foie gras is tweaked by lightening the salad of apples, celery and walnuts with the addition of salad cream to the mayonnaise.
"We've made our own salad cream using an old Margaret Costa recipe," he says.
A spiced, Thai-inspired green paste (made from mint, coriander, creamed coconut, chillies, garlic, olive oil and seasoning) cuts through the richness of roast duck served with a pea and potato pancake, while garlic mash and herb butter are the accompaniments to deep-fried sole.
For dessert there is a choice of three puddings - such as strawberries and shortbread ice-cream or Bakewell tart and warm custard - alongside home-made ice-cream (such as lemon curd, white chocolate and raspberry, or passion fruit) and a selection of British farmhouse cheeses.
Only three cheeses are available at any one time - such as Jersey Blue, Bath Soft and Cornish Yarg - to ensure they are kept in prime condition and for reasons of cost. They are served with home-made walnut and raisin or fig and raisin bread.
Ironically, the customers, who are keeping Jaks constantly busy, are spending more than Jones and Mann had originally anticipated. Average spend is £35-40 per head, including wine.
"Although most of our wines are reasonably priced, a lot of people are spending more on drink because the food is so cheap," says Jones.
Jaks, 77 Lower Sloane Street, London SW1W 8DA. Tel: 0207 730 9476. Web site: www.jaksclub.com
