Just paying the rent
Neil Perry was left with rent to pay when a restaurant he had subleased to another operator went into liquidation. Sara Guild reports.
The latest creation from leading Sydney chef Neil Perry, XO, was born of necessity. Although the 80-seat restaurant is housed in Perry's former Star Bar and Grill, which closed in July 2000, the premises were subsequently subleased to another operator, which went into liquidation two months ago, leaving Perry liable for the rent. Within three weeks, Perry, who also owns Rockpool in Sydney, and his partner Trish Richards had invested A$100,000 (£35,180) and created XO.
Simpler offering
The restaurant is open from Tuesday to Saturday for dinner only. The opening menu carries 10 starters, nine mains and three desserts, and offers what Perry describes as "modern Asian" food, specifically Malay with Vietnamese and Thai influences. It is, he says, a simpler offering than in his previous restaurants, and he expects average spend to be A$35-A$45 (£12.30-£15.80) per head.
Steamed pippies (small clams) served with chilli sauce (A$13, £4.60) is a signature starter that is selling well. Nuoc cham, another popular dish, features a traditional Vietnamese dressing and king prawn and chicken Vietnamese coleslaw (A$14, £4.90).
Main courses reflect the same emphasis on fresh ingredients and straightforward cooking as the starters. Grilled swordfish on green pawpaw and cashew nut salad is dressed with a Nam Jim Thai sauce (A$23, £8.10), while stir-fried black pepper beef fillet (A$25, £8.80) is a Malay-influenced version of the Chinese beef in black bean sauce. There are a variety of side dishes ranging from asparagus sambal to steamed Chinese greens with oyster sauce (both A$8, £2.80).
The dessert menu is kept simple, with three options. Jack fruit and ginger ice-cream pyramid (A$9, £3.10) served on a banana leaf, for example, cleans the palate and cools the mouth after a typically spicy meal.
While Perry cooked at the restaurant for its first three nights, it is Sarah Kodicek who runs the kitchen. She previously worked at Perry's Wokpool restaurant, but has spent the past five months working at Perry's office on various projects - cookbooks and his next TV series. "It's been interesting being out of the kitchen," she says. "It's really revitalised me and, on XO's opening night, it felt great to be behind the woks again."
New Zealand-born Kodicek heads a team of six, and team members rotate through the stove, wok, grill, deep fryer and larder sections to gain experience.
The kitchen served 90 on its opening night and has averaged 65-70 covers a night since. Perry estimates that this will grow to 120, plus bar trade. Having spent three years working at Rockpool, Peter Curcuruto is now heading the front of house team of six at XO. In between, he was head waiter at London's the Avenue.
The wine list offers those bins strong enough to complement the flavours of Asian food, namely Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz and Gewrztraminer. Nine wines are sold by the glass, and prices for bottles range from A$17 (£6) for Wilga Rock Sauvignon Blanc to A$55 (£19.30) for Mountadam Chardonnay.
But why the name? XO originates from Hong Kong, where the term is used as a mark of quality for home-made chilli sauces. Perry was inspired to use the name when he visited the country recently to film his latest television series for Fox Television.
XO, 155 Victoria Street, Potts Point, Sydney. Tel: 61 2 9331 8881.
A selection from the menu at XO
Chargrilled octopus salad, A$14 (£4.90)
Steamed vegetarian dumplings with chilli sauce, A$10 (£3.50)
Chargrilled chicken satay with red curry peanut sauce, A$12 (£4.20)
Whole fried ocean perch with three-flavoured sauce, A$24 (£8.45)
Crispy fried pork hock with caramel, chilli and lime sauce, A$19 (£6.70)
Grilled duck with tamarind sauce, A$24 (£8.45)
Fresh fruit platter, A$10 (£3.50)
Black sticky rice with coconut, A$9 (£3.10)
