Know your grapes
The more you taste, the more you'll learn. Simple. I mean different wines, of course - not the same old bottle of Aussie Shiraz you keep ordering at your local or piling into your shopping trolley and knocking back merrily. But it all looks so daunting doesn't it? What to choose, where to start, how to taste? Let's deal with the last question first. You think all that slurping you see wine buffs do on the telly looks silly, don't you? Well, you're right, it does. But it has a purpose: establishing the wine's balance of alcohol and acidity, its levels of tannin and fruit.
First, fill your glass about a third full. Tilt it against a white background or hold it up to the daylight so you can see the range of colours from the centre to the rim (older red wines start to fade at the rim, with a browny, tawny colour, while red wines made from gutsier grape varieties from hotter climes have the deepest colours). Give it a swirl, then jam your nose right in and inhale slowly. First impressions count - after two or three sniffs your senses are dulled. You can tell a lot just from inhaling: what grape variety it is, even where the wine comes from.
Keep those aromas in mind and run with it. Warm cocoa, peach melba, nail varnish, the inside of a cigar box, rising bread dough, freshly mown grass, fresh dung - anything goes; let it flow.
Take a sip. Roll it around the mouth - you can suck in some air at this point, you'll find that it kick-starts the aromas and flavours. Make a note of any acidity, sweetness or chewiness - also called tannin - that furry, drying feeling you get after a swig of young red. Is it light, medium or full-bodied? Is it balanced? What fruit are you getting? Then swallow, or spit, making a note of any lingering flavours (the length). You like? Swirl, sniff and spit. That's it.
Big grapes - white
Next step: know your grapes. There are hundreds of grape varieties out there, but don't panic, there are just a few - about nine, in fact - that make most of the wines on our shelves. King of the white grapes (because it's currently the most popular) is Chardonnay. It might be the most popular grape, but many of us still don't realise that this is the grape responsible for another global wine drinkers' favourite: Chablis.
Chardonnay is planted all over the wine world, from British Columbia to the British Isles. Why? Because, at its best, it produces complex aromas of nuts, butter, toast and mushrooms with tastes that range from apple and lemon to peach and melon. And it's easy to grow, and as happy in the cool climes of its homeland Burgundy as it is in the hot, irrigated plains of California's Central Coast. And it adores oak.
Sauvignon Blanc is not so good in oak, though some winemakers continue to try. Grown in France for aeons, from the Loire (Sancerre, Pouilly Fum‚) through to the Gironde, it is also responsible for the great sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, when blended with S‚millon. The most easily recognisable of all the grape varieties, it's lovingly referred to as "cat's pee on a gooseberry bush" in Marlborough, New Zealand, while "freshly squeezed grapefruit with a kick of lime" is more South Africa's thing.
Let's get one thing straight: Riesling is pronounced ree-sling, not rye-sling. And it's important that you do get this right, because Riesling produces some of the finest dry white wines in the world - and some serious sweet wine. Not that most restaurants and supermarkets appear to be aware of this, where it's still, sadly, a hard sell. Most of it is grown in Germany, where it reflects the different soils and microclimates in which it is grown without losing its identity better than almost any other grape. It also scales the heights over the border in Alsace. It's incredibly aromatic, whiffs of petrol - a good thing, honest - and has enormous ageing potential: a 20-year-old turns heads.
One of the unsung heroes of French white wines, S‚millon is a key player in the Bordeaux region, positively shines in Oz, and is big in Chile. In fact, most wine countries are having a go. Though often blended with Chardonnay, when grown in certain places, allowed certain ripeness and barrel fermentation, it can hold its own for up to 20 years or more.
Chenin Blanc will also stay the course. As one of the world's most versatile grape varieties it can turn its hand at either seriously good sweet wine or a dry wine with great intensity, depending on where it's grown. It rules in the central Loire and South Africa, and is prolific (though generally nothing to write home about) in California.
Big grapes - red Let's hear it for Cabernet Sauvignon, arguably the world's most famous grape, grown just about anywhere there are vineyards. From its power base in Bordeaux, where it is almost always blended, to its solo show in New Zealand's Hawke's Bay, it still manages to retain its character. With its big, fat, blackcurranty nose, you can spot one, blindfolded, at 50 paces.
Americans love to say the word Merlot (Mur-low, they chime). Fat and juicy, and not too heavy on the tannins, everybody loves Merlot. Black cherries, plums, vanilla, toffee, chocolate and spices, who wouldn't? Mention St Emilion and Pomerol to a Merlot enthusiast and hear them sigh - these Bordeaux appellations turn out serious Merlot at serious prices, encouraging growers the world over to try to replicate their efforts.
Now, ask a wine buff what their favourite red grape variety is and they'll probably reply Pinot Noir. It's the Holy Grail for many winemakers because, at it's best, in Burgundy's C"te d'Or, it does incredible things with a bit of age - from roses, raspberries and cherries to cranberries, truffles and even well-hung game. And did I mention its silky texture? Thing is, it's tricky to grow, as it's thin-skinned and sensitive to the climate, poor love. The New World is still experimenting wildly with it, working out which clones work best where - parts of California have got it sussed, so has Oregon and Central Otago in New Zealand.
Syrah, or Shiraz, is another grape that can elicit an almost indecent response from its fans. Its home is the northern Rh"ne, site of two of the world's greatest reds - Hermitage and C"te-R"tie. In California, it has a cult following, where slaves to Syrah are known as Rh"ne Rangers. It's Australia's most planted red grape, and excels in regions like the Barossa and the Eden Valley. What does it taste like? Blackberry, damson and plum fruits, a whiff of smoke, a spoonful of molasses and an occasional blast of violet. And it blends well with other varieties, such as the sweeter Grenache and muddier MourvŠdre. n
Wine by style "I don't know much about wine, but I know what I like." How many times have you heard this? You've probably said it yourself: you like a juicy red with your steak. But which are the juicy reds? Or the steely whites? Get the style right and you're on the right track to get the food match - and your wine list - right.
Clean and crisp: dry whites Look at easy Bordeaux whites, such as Entre-deux-Mers, Muscadet, basic Chablis or everyday Ma‡on Blanc; Alsace Silvaners and Pinot Blancs; Italian Soave, Verdicchio, Orvieto Secco and Frascati, not to mention Pinots Grigio and Bianco and Vermentino - in fact, the Italians love their whites fairly neutral. The Spanish, too - especially good are those from Rueda - not forgetting Portugal and its vinho verde.
Tangy and creamy: medium whites Look at New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc - in fact, Sauvignon from most places - plus Chenin Blancs (especially those from the Loire with a bit of age). Chablis proper, and other white Burgundy, plus the tangy whites from the south-west. Most countries offer medium whites - even England (try Bacchus). Then there's the good stuff in Italy, Spain too, plus Portugal, and Eastern Europe. There's lots to choose from in North America, such as Oregon Pinot Gris; and try cooler-climate Oz Chardonnays.
Rich and succulent: full-bodied whites Oz Chardonnays, not so cooler-climate, or Oz Marsanne, or S‚millon - they don't get much bigger. But Chardonnay pretty much anywhere in the New World, and even Burgundy in a good vintage. Rh"ne varietal Roussanne is a powerful glug, not forgetting Austrian Grner Veltiner, especially after a few years in the bottle.
Fragrant and fruity: aromatic whites King of the aromatic grapes is Gewurztraminer, best in Alsace. Then there's Riesling - Germany's and Alsace's pack the biggest punch. Or for a lighter touch, try Aussie or New Zealand Riesling, and Muscat - a fragrant grape if ever there was. Viognier, also, can scale the aromatics register, and you can also look at Spain's north-west corner, with Albari¤o in Galicia. Argentina is making a name for itself with spicy Torront‚s.
Soft and juicy: light, fruity reds Low on tannins, high on fruit and usually pale in colour - think Beaujolais and surrounds, Italy's Alto Adige, Dolcetto from the Piedmont and, if it's bubbles you like, then Lambrusco. And take a look at the wine coming out of Spain's vast plains, such as La Mancha. And of course, Pinot Noir - but when it achieves greatness it slips into the next category up.
Full and fruity: medium-bodied reds The best Pinot Noir, all agree, is from Burgundy. In general, though, this category of wine is found in most of Europe - head to the sun. For medium-bodied reds don't rule out Bordeaux and its less-serious labels. Most wines made from Merlot sit happily in this section (except Californian Merlot, which moves up to the next). Syrah from the northern Rh"ne and Grenache from the southern Rh"ne, Proven‡al reds, and a vast range from all over Italy. In Spain, look to younger Riojas.
Big boys: full-bodied reds Muscular, meaty, richly flavoured, in general these wines are made in hotter areas, from older vines, aged in oak barrels. And, in the hands of an expert, many of those previously mentioned can build up enough muscle to sit here. Cabernet Sauvignon rules, with the biggest of all found in California. You can include Californian Zinfandel in here, too. Huge. And the likes of earthy MourvŠdre grown in Bandol. Portugal has its share of big reds, look out for those from the Douro, Bairrada and D‹o. Greece, too. Leave Europe and full-bodied reds become the norm, from Argentina to Australia.
In the pink Provence is a good place to start, even Bordeaux has a few pinks, and the Loire makes some decent ros‚. Ditto for Chile and Argentina, South Africa and Australia. I head to Spain, though, to the Navarra region, where ros‚ rules (preferably with a big plate of pata negra). Made mostly with Garnacha (Grenache), it's packed with strawberry fruit and zingy acidity.
