Landmark's lighter touch
A wind of change is blowing through the Victorian splendour of the two-AA-rosette, 80-seat Dining Room restaurant in London's Landmark hotel.
Lighter fare exhibiting Mediterranean and Oriental influences is the order of the day, thanks to the Landmark's new head chef, Andrew McLeish, who has just returned from a working stint in Thailand after earlier spells at London's Ritz and Chez Nico.
But McLeish fights shy of being categorised as an "East meets West" chef using fashionable ingredients. "I'm classically trained and I aim to use quality ingredients without bastardising them," he says.
Accordingly, lemon grass, chilli, goats' cheese, polenta and sun-dried tomato put in appearances in the 13-starter and 15-main course offerings on his newly drawn-up autumn menu. For example, lemon grass is served with a brochette of salmon, prawn won ton and sweet plum sauce (£10.75), goats' cheese with a sesame seed crust and a lightly spiced tomato sauce (£8.25) and polenta with a classic dish of grilled and baked rabbit with rocket salad (£19.50).
The Dining Room has always been known as a fish restaurant, and although McLeish with the help of his eight-strong kitchen brigade is gradually moving away from that reputation, there are still five starter dishes and eight main choices featuring seafood, including a grilled lobster served with tagliatelle and a mildly spiced chilli and beef sauce (£15.50) which he pinpoints as accurately representing the eaterie's style.
Inspiration for the dish comes from the East. "In Thailand, they often serve chilled salad to cool spicy dishes down," explains McLeish, adding, "we cook and chill the tagliatelle, marinate it in spring onions, lemon juice, fish sauce and coriander and pop the hot lobster on top."
The dish is popular with customers, who tend to be local residents, business people and the occasional "personality". Other favourites are baked sea bass with lobster herb crust served with artichoke hearts and a warm chive dressing (£20.50), and pan-fried fillet of Angus beef served with roast potato, provençale vegetables and a Parmesan chip (£19.95).
Diners in the 70-80-cover restaurant (35 covers - lunchtime) are served by a 13-strong front of house brigade headed by restaurant manager Andy Vences. Average spend per head is £35 for lunch, £40 for dinner, including wine from the extensive 200-bin list.
Desserts (all £7.25) include chocolate Negus with orange sorbet and Grand Marnier sauce, warm rice pudding with coconut milk and a macédoine of tropical fruit or ricotta cheese crumble with honey-roast peach and vanilla ice-cream.
In addition to the à la carte, the Dining Room operates a two-course (£18.50) and three-course menu (£22.50) and a four-course Sunday jazz brunch (£24). McLeish is clear about his objectives on all four of his menus - "to offer quality, distinctive dishes and to get three AA rosettes".
The Dining Room, the Landmark London, 222 Marylebone Road, London NW1 6JQ. Tel: 0171-631 8000.
