Larousse embraces broader view of international cuisine

The view that classic French cuisine is intrinsically more valuable than others has shifted in the past few decades, judging by the list of new entries in the first British edition of Larousse Gastronomique for 17 years.

The tendency of earlier editions to ignore the cooking styles of India and the Far East has been swept aside as satay, samosas, dim sum, paneer, garam masala and stir-frying all make their appearance in the chefs' encyclopedia.

Consultant editor Bridget Jones said the book, due in October, no longer glossed over the cooking of different countries and reflected just how international the appreciation of food had become in recent decades.

British staples such as fish and chips, Lancashire hotpot, shepherd's pie and Christmas pudding feature as their own entries for the first time.

While these dishes, along with tapas and pesto, were mentioned in previous editions, they did not have their own listing. Jones said this change towards more accessible entries reflected the broader readership of the book, which is no longer devoured just by professional chefs. "Junk food" is also given an entry, but Jones said this was for historical record and would not include "21 ways of presenting your foamburger".

A nod is given to unusual dishes regularly eaten in other countries, such as kangaroo, emu and guinea pig - but, again, no recipes are included.

Among other unfamiliar exotica gaining entry are mombin (Jamaican plums), bleak (a fish) and fufu (an African starchy meal staple).

by Angela Frewin