Laura Aikens

04 September 2003 by
Laura Aikens

On Mondays I go to the flower market so I get up at 6am and get into work for 7.30 to arrange the flowers for the week, but generally I wake up at 7.30. I arrive at the restaurant between 8 and 9am. I used to eat breakfast but since the opening it hasn't really happened. Tom always gets in before me.

I like coming in before the staff start work because it means I get some peace and quiet to look at the previous night's sales, make sure everything was OK cashing up, and just deal with things before the phones start ringing. I don't have anyone else to do all the administration - I don't have the space. I've got my book-keeper and that's enough.

There's still so much to do with the building, just little things mainly. I had the builder and architect in for a couple of hours yesterday and we went through the entire snagging list. Back of house all needs repainting and there's a lot of touching-up that needs to be done.

Waiting list
Before lunch I start to deal with enquiries, see who's on the waiting list or try to find a table for someone special. Then I'll go into the kitchen and talk to Tom about changes to the menus, print out new menus and make sure everything's OK with front of house. At 11am we all sit down for our staff meal and that's the first time I'll eat.

At 11.30 we get changed and have a briefing. That takes 10 to 15 minutes and then it's about 11.45 and service begins. I'm on the floor for the whole time. I only see Tom in passing. I love working with him but we don't really see each other much.

After lunch, what I do depends on the day. I might answer correspondence, look at wine lists, maintenance issues in the restaurant, meet with the linen company, anyone and everyone. We might have a board meeting with our company chairman, which is really good to do. When you get so involved in the nitty-gritty he can make you step back and focus on the whole operation.

Sometimes I take a break and try to get to the gym. Being on the go all the time it's physically good for you for keeping your energy up. I used to go about three times a week before April, but now it doesn't happen. Before we opened I used to think I'd still go to my 7am class but now, no way.

Tom will usually work through, although now he might get half-an-hour to sit down with a newspaper and a cup of tea.

At 6pm we have another meal and then I'll do the table allocation. We only book up to a month in advance. We made that decision as it was getting ridiculous being booked up to three months in advance. At 6.30pm we'll have another briefing and then service.

I often go before closing. I usually get home at midnight, have something to eat and wait for Tom to get home. I might read the paper for a bit and then go to bed.

At weekends I sleep. In April, May and some of June we worked most weekends, but we're not doing that so much any more, although Tom still works every Sunday in the kitchen. We both used to go horse riding, but we gave it up because we were so knackered.

We're also making a programme with the BBC about couples who work together. They filmed a day last week in the restaurant, then went to the flower market with me and the vegetable market with Tom. It's one of those things that you agree to at the time. We thought it would be great publicity and we felt we couldn't afford to say no, but now we're thinking: "No, not more filming"!

Interview by Helen Adkins

Factfile

Tom Aikens 43 Elystan Street, London SW3
Tel: 020 7584 2003
Seats: 60
Covers: lunch 20 to 30; dinner 40 to 60.
Staff: 13
Dinner for two including wine and service: about £150

Just a minute…

What's your most embarrassing moment? It's yet to come… probably when that TV programme is aired.

Favourite restaurant?
Chez Bruce. I've always had a soft spot for it. When it first opened we used to go there for Sunday lunch the whole time. It's a warm and hospitable place with great food. I also love Zuma.

Who do you most admire in the industry?
I don't know many people in the industry really, but I'd say Tom. You've never met a chef who worked so hard.

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