Lawn unto himself

While the menus at Lawn - the former One Lawn Terrace relaunched earlier this year as part of Bank Group Restaurants - do contain hints of head chef Eddie Grappy's time as sous chef under Christian Delteil at Bank, Grappy's aim since his appointment last October has been to put his own stamp on the restaurant.

Grappy is striving to create menus with an international flavour that appeal to his wide-based clientele and says the global-style cuisine served in the 150-seat restaurant is "the way British restaurant food is going".

His menus, prepared by a kitchen brigade of 10 and served by a front of house team of eight, include an à la carte; a Saturday and Sunday brunch menu; a two-course children's menu at £6.95; and two set menus priced at £11.95 for two courses and £15.50 for three.

The Delteil-influenced classic French brasserie dishes such as terrine of foie gras and chicken liver with pickled girolles and brioche (£7.50) sit on the à la carte menu alongside Grappy's own creations which, in the 11-strong starter section, include Thai spiced fish and crab cake with sweet chilli sauce (£6.50).

The latter is such a firm favourite among an average of 100 diners per evening - who spend about £42 each with drink - that the dish is a constant feature on the menu, where most dishes are changed seasonally. The fish cakes are served with a sweet chilli sauce because, says Grappy, "Everybody else is doing a hot chilli sauce."

Also a hit with diners is the starter of creamy salt cod, bacon, and poached egg (£5.50), which Grappy describes as "almost like lumpy mash". The dish consists of salted cod mixed with potatoes, olive oil, garlic and parsley with double cream added while it is heating up. A poached egg is hidden inside as a balance to the fish's saltiness.

While fish might be favourite among the starters, meat tops the popularity stakes among the 13 main courses on the à la carte menu. Most-commonly asked-for dishes are duck breast with spring onion potato, green cabbage and raspberry jus (£14) and an Oriental loin of pork, noodles and wok-fried vegetables (£12.95).

A touch of the Orient surfaces again on the nine-strong dessert list in the form of passion fruit wonton with glazed crème chiboust (£4.50), which Grappy included to offer customers something different from the more usual dessert choices.

Further changes are set to take place at the restaurant with the addition of a bar early next year. The new area will be under the responsibility of general manager Raquel d'Oliveira.

Lawn, 1 Lawn Terrace, Blackheath Village, London SE3 9LJ. Tel: 020 8379 0724

Carpaccio of tuna, noodles, and watercress salad, Italian dressing, £7.50

Goats' cheese crostini with orange and beetroot dressing, £5.50

Squid linguini, £8.50 (£11.50 as a main)

Calves' liver forestière, creamed potatoes, £15.50

Breast of chicken, bubble and squeak, green mustard sauce, £10.50

Seared tuna with confit fennel, olives and sauce vierge, £14.50

Rhubarb crème brûlée tart, mint ice-cream, £4.50

Chocolate millefeuille, Cointreau ice-cream, chocolate sauce, £4.50

Liqueur-poached apricots, almond clafouti, stem ginger, crème fraîche, £4.50