Letters

01 January 2000
Letters

Training is the answer to kitchen violence

I was disappointed at the largely negative reaction in last week's letters (5 October) to The Big Story (ITV, 28 September).

Although I am upset to see stories like this on television, the problem is more widespread than the three cases it showed.

But instead of slapping those involved on the wrist, why not give chefs the skills they require to deal with people in high-pressure situations. Such skills have been taught to chefs in Australia for more than 20 years in schools and colleges. It does not solve the problem completely, but it helps.

We all know that cooking is a stressful occupation, but it is not the only one. Who has ever heard of doctors and nurses bashing the hell out of one another?

What's more important, a perfectly turned carrot or somebody's life?

JOSHUA HAMPTON,

Executive Head Chef,

Ebury Wine Bars, London SW1.

Chefs' violence is not creative

I commend the crew of The Big Story for exposing the reality of commercial kitchen violence. As students, many of us have been through the severe verbal abuse and degradation that was featured in the programme.

Thankfully, I have never been subjected to the violence. But it is a sad reflection of our industry that it has become an accepted part of kitchen life that juniors can be abused in such a manner and have no real ability to argue back. And yet this is what many of our peers describe as good training and character-building.

I urge senior managers to take a good look at what is going on in their kitchens and not simply accept chefs' violence as part of their creativity.

Having seen the violent chefs in action, I wonder how they would survive in the kitchen theatres featured in "Chefs on Show". It would be some performance!

KAREN GREANY,

Blackrock, Dublin.

The other side to john Burton-race

I write in defence of John Burton-Race, who employed my late son Paul for two of the happiest years of his life.

Paul trained as a patissier at L'Ortolan, starting in July 1989. It was his first position in a major kitchen and Paul would have done anything for Mr Burton-Race and, similarly, Mr Burton-Race dedicated his book, Recipes from an English Masterchef, to my son.

Although I do not condone physical violence, for The Big Story to pillory Mr Burton-Race in such a way is outrageous.

One story springs to mind that reveals another side to him. Paul lived in the cottage behind the restaurant and came home for Christmas. One employee from Scotland couldn't get home, however, so he was invited to spend Christmas with the Burton-Races.

EDDIE MANSFIELD,

Chelmsford, Essex.

Commitment goes both ways

I read with interest the letter from Kirsten O'Halloran , about interview techniques and recruiting companies' attitudes. As with most things, there are two sides to every story.

At Marston Hotels, we have run a post-graduate training scheme for eight years. Our training officer is in regular contact with many colleges and we get a substantial number of enquiries.

This year we selected 30 applicants to attend the first day's interview, which ran from 9am until 5pm and involved group discussions, individual interviews and tests. As a result, 14 of the applicants were invited back a few days later for a 24-hour period.

The day started with some team-building exercises, followed by further individual and group discussions and interviews.

We subsequently offered five people positions on the hotel management post-graduate course and one a position on a leisure management course. At interview stage and in great clarity in our offer letter, we spelt out that applicants should not accept the position if they had any doubts about their commitment to us for the one-year period or if they had other offers or applications in the pipeline. We did not want anyone to accept a place and then change their mind before the year started or just after it had begun.

What a disappointment then when one candidate, having accepted a position and after we had advised the other applicants that they had not been successful, decided he would rather work in a local restaurant. And within seven weeks of the start of the course, a second candidate took up an offer from a hotel in the USA.

This is not sour grapes, but an observation that students should give the same commitment they normally expect employers to give. If students cannot do this, does it mean we have to offer fixed-term contracts with penalty clauses?

I wonder whether these two young people will have the same outlook if, when they get to a management position, they are treated in the manner in which they have recently behaved.

CHRISTOPHER SCRAGG,

Managing Director,

Marston Hotels, Hythe, Kent.

Switched off by computers

I read with interest the Utopian vision of computers in catering (Food Service Management, 14 September).

I recently worked for a contract caterer and would still be working for them had I not been demoted to second chef in favour of the computer.

I could not accept the rigidity of telling the computer how many grammes of chopped parsley were required to garnish the boeuf bourguignon.

If I started out again I would not be a chef, simply because as a chef I regard flexibility, which the computer does not give, as an integral part of success and job satisfaction.

My manager wanted me to sit at the computer keeping it happy. I wanted to keep the customers happy. I could not do both.

Name and address supplied

There is method in our inspection

There is method in our inspection WHILE I sympathise with Mary Ann Gilchrist's frustration at having to wait for an inspection from either ourselves or Michelin, it is wrong for her to suggest that we "cannot be bothered" to inspect establishments "miles from anywhere".

We are, after all, independent in our selection. The number of requests for new visits far outweighs our resources. We cannot guarantee visits, nor satisfy everyone at their request. We must first assess, on an annual basis, those already featured in an existing guide to ensure continuity of standards.

It is no secret that both Michelin and ourselves employ full-time inspectors and do not charge for inspections. Neither do we accept advertising, payment or hospitality from establishments that are listed, or wish to be listed. In effect, we provide free publicity and marketing to those places we recommend.

I am sure that Ms Gilchrist's hotel and restaurant, along with many others, merits an inspection, but I find it unlikely we wrote to her saying "that if we happened to be in the area we might find time to inspect".

Ms Gilchrist's establishment is on our database and the Powys research list. The café opposite was, in fact, visited for the Just a Bite Guide 1995.

We're flattered that Ms Gilchrist attaches so much importance to her possible inclusion in our guide, and we fully realise the benefits that we can bring her. All we ask is for some patience.

ANDREW ELIEL

Editorial Director,

Egon Ronay's Guides, London SW10.

Are we happier in pubs?

Why is it that people seem to think that pubs are better value than restaurants?

I run a small restaurant in Somerset, opening in the evenings only. Recently, I made a lunchtime visit to a pub recommended by a guide. The main courses ranged from £8.75 to £13.95.

We sat down at a bare table later furnished with tablemats and cutlery wrapped in serviettes. After 45-minutes' wait, our meals appeared. Very nice,

nothing extraordinary, just simple cooking. The bill for two main courses, two puddings and coffee came to £34.50.

In nearby Bath, many excellent restaurants are having to offer two-course lunches for £9.50 or even £5.50. Such meals include French bread, linen tablecloths and good service.

What is it about the British that we are willing to pay through the nose for an indifferent pub product? Is it that we are just not comfortable in restaurants?

Name and address supplied

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