Light is right
The Swiss Cottage area of north London is home to a diverse mix of people and cultures, so when Neil Armishaw opened Globe in 1997, he aimed to provide the district with high-quality cooking at an affordable price.
But he has never been happy about the restaurant's cuisine being labelled "modern British", so earlier this year he took on Bruce Theobald as head chef to rework the menu. "Modern British conjures up a mish-mash of ideas and ingredients," says Armishaw. "I would like to think of Globe's new food offering as a modern approach to classical French cooking."
Theobald's classic French training is reflected in a monthly-changing menu on which he pretty much has free rein. "There are certain factors I have to take into account, such as the large Jewish population in this area," says Theobald. "And while this is not a restaurant that specifically targets this sector, there have to be dishes available that Jewish guests can eat."
A move towards lighter dishes made from the freshest possible ingredients was Theobald's priority. That meant a dish of pan-fried sea bass, previously served with vegetables stir-fried in sesame oil and soy sauce, is now accompanied by baby vegetables, asparagus and beurre blanc (£13.95).
One change that didn't go down well with regulars was the removal of a duck salad, something of a signature dish at Globe. But Theobald quickly reinstated it so that diners could enjoy the warm duck confit salad, served with a hoi sin dressing and parsnip crisps (£5.50).
One of Theobald's favourite dishes is a starter of chicken liver and truffle parfait (£4.50). "This is a classical French dish," he says. "There is very little I can do to improve on the traditional method of preparing it." However, he does add a twist by serving it with brioche and apple jelly.
A popular choice at main course is calves' liver, chargrilled and served on crushed new potatoes with onion and minted green vegetables (£12.95).
Preparing the dishes, chosen from a selection that usually comprises nine starters, 10 main courses and seven desserts, is a brigade of four chefs. About six staff work the restaurant floor, and they all taste new dishes as they are added to the menu.
The restaurant is able to cater for as many as 65 customers during one sitting, with up to 110 covers being served on a Saturday night. Theobald believes that his move towards lighter dishes has helped to increase average spend, which now stands at £30 including wine. "It was my intention to ensure that more diners had room for dessert," he says.
One of the most popular desserts at the moment is an upmarket version of banana split (£4.50), using crème chantilly and banana and chocolate chip ice-cream. "We're not trying to reinvent the wheel," he says. "We're just offering good food at the right price."
A selection of dishes from the Globe menu
Quail salad with green beans, mushrooms, shallots and white truffle oil, £4.95
Rocket and ricotta ravioli with artichoke, spinach and thyme butter, £4.95
Oak-smoked salmon with potato and spring onion salad, £5.95
Grilled tuna with roasted salsify, fèves, red onion, rosemary and rocket, £12.95
Goats' cheese croutons with plum tomatoes, green and broad beans, Thai asparagus, olives and pesto, £10.50
Pot-roasted chicken breast with spinach, garlic leaf and wild mushrooms, £12.95
Caramelised pineapple parfait with wild berry coulis, £4.50
Warm chocolate brownie with marshmallow ice-cream, £4.50
Fruit platter with fruit purée and white chocolate dipping sauce, £9.50 (for two people)
Globe restaurant, 100 Avenue Road, London NW3 3HF. Tel: 020 7722 7200. Web site: www.globerestaurant.co.uk
