Man of experience

Fresh from the latest challenge of preparing dinner for 250 of his leading contemporaries at the 1995 Chef Conference dinner, Peter Kromberg looks back on his 20-year stint as executive chef at London's Hotel Inter-Continental with great fondness.

It has been a successful tenure and one in which he has risen to become one of the leading banqueting chefs in the country.

Ask any regular attendee of events in London which venue serves the best and most consistent food, and the Inter-Continental at Hyde Park Corner will be among the top three names.

Last year's food figures at the 437-bedroom, five-star hotel, show the importance of banqueting to Kromberg's operation. Out of a total food turnover of £5.7m, £4.5m - earned from 300,000 covers - was attributable to banqueting. "Good banqueting will always provide a higher profit opportunity than any hotel restaurant," says Kromberg. Food costs for banqueting at the hotel are 32%, with a gross profit of 68%.

Kromberg doesn't hesitate when asked what is the success of good banqueting. "Simplicity. Keep the dishes as simple as possible and think about how you are going to serve them to large numbers. Only use the best possible products, and for the pre-printed function list choose ingredients that are available all year at the same quality and price."

Careful, advanced planning also ensures a smooth-running event. "You can't operate successful banqueting on a day-to-day basis. We always start talking to our butchers at least a week in advance of an event to ensure that we get only the best products, hung for the correct length of time if necessary, and in the right condition."

The hotel can accommodate a maximum of 800 covers for a sit-down dinner, or up to 1,200 for cocktails, in the Park Suite on the first floor. All hot food is cooked in the banqueting kitchen, also on the first floor, with cold dishes and desserts prepared in the main kitchen on the ground floor. "It can be a logistical nightmare when the lift is in high demand," he adds.

Sous chef Richard Jones, who has been with Kromberg for nearly seven years, is responsible for the banqueting kitchen with a team of just three chefs. Kromberg talks through the day's functions with Jones every morning, then supervises the lunch service for the hotel's Le Soufflé restaurant before joining Jones later in the day for all important dinners.

The biggest change to banqueting during Kromberg's two decades at the Inter-Continental relates to the style of service. In the mid-1970s, all courses would have been silver-service, Today only the main course will be served in this way.

Kromberg would like to see all courses plated, but lack of space in the kitchens prevents him from doing so. "A first course in those days may have been a mousse of hake cooked in a savarin ring and filled with a ragout of seafood. By the time this was cut up and served to the customer, it never looked good."

A popular choice for main course would have been a large joint carved in front of guests, maybe a sirloin of beef wrapped in pastry. "People no longer want to see great big slices of meat that would then have been served to them."

For dessert, a dish that has become something of Kromberg's trademark - a soufflé - may have been served. A large one for eight or 10 portions would have been cut outside the room and served up in a very poor-looking state.

Now, soufflés come in individual portions. Kromberg is not at all phased by serving soufflés for up to 250 covers. He is only prevented from doing more by lack of oven space. "We use a strong French flour which ensures it will not collapse. You could leave it standing in front of the customer for 45 minutes and it would still be upright."

Despite having overseen thousands of banquets during his career, Kromberg continues to enjoy the challenge of coping with large events. "They always give me a headache beforehand, but they can be very satisfying when they go well.

"You can never please everyone when catering for such large numbers. But if at least 80% of our guests are happy, then I am too."