Moving in the right direction
To say that a lot has been happening in the South African wine industry is a bit of an understatement. It has come a long way fast (which is not to say that it doesn't still have a way to go yet), but the recent creation of the Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association (WIETA), which faces up to a plethora of issues, including the heinous dop system, where workers were paid in wine, is one massive step in the right direction. And two weeks ago, at the London Wine Fair, its new chief executive officer, labour relations consultant Nicky Taylor, was announced.
So in the spirit of new beginnings, I caught up with Mike Ratcliffe, who produces some of the country's top wines at Warwick Estate, to discuss some of his country's other major changes - and his wines, of course. "South Africa is significantly reducing volumes when everybody else is increasing theirs - in vineyard area and yields," Ratcliffe says. "And trying to find a winemaker over 40 these days would be difficult."
For Ratcliffe, though, things couldn't be better. His Three Cape Ladies Cape blend was positioned in US publication Wine Spectator's top 40 wines under $25 (£15). Then, of course, there's Warwick Estate's top blend Trilogy, which is coveted by many of the world's top restaurants - most recently Aureole in New York, where it is now listed alongside Grange and Sassicaia.
Warwick Estate is also about to launch its first Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaker Louis Nel used to work with the legendary Neil Ellis, who makes some of the country's best Sauvignon Blanc. Called Professor Black (it's a long story), the wine is made using grapes from Warwick's own estate. "The vines are 20 years old - we used to sell the grapes to Ken Forrester," Ratcliffe says. And yes, there will be some winging its way to the UK - about 300 cases (Louis Latour, 020 7409 7276). Still in South Africa, Orbital (020 7802 5415) was showing ex-Delaire Bruwer Raats's wines. Under the Raats Family label, there's a zippy, limey unwooded Chenin Blanc and a superior wooded version (incidentally, there are only about five producers in South Africa that put their Chenin in wood).
Orbital also list Boekenhoutskloof. Winemaker and Syrah master Marc Kent had brought over his new unfiltered Chocolate Block, a sensational blend of Syrah, old vine Grenache and Cinsault, which sells for about £15 a bottle.
And talking of Grenache and Syrah blends, French wine giant François Lurton was showing off his Château des Erles - the first super premium Fitou to hit the market.
"We realised that there was no top Fitou and we knew it could be done," Lurton explains. So what did he do to shape up the 70-hectare domaine near Villeneuve des Corbières? "We tidied up the soil, worked on yields and concentrated on pruning, plus we did a green harvest in July," he replies. "Many people could do this in Fitou if they really wanted to."
Not surprisingly, there has been much local interest in the wine. But what does it taste like? The Syrah dominates with a huge smoky nose, and there are robust tannins (a little too robust right now) plus a medley of red fruits (www.jflurton.com).
Show highlights
* Hatch Mansfield (01344 871800) introduces Avant Garde, a silky - and affordable - Californian Pinot Noir from the Taittinger-owned Domaine Carneros. Although the first vintage was 1992, Avant Garde is new to the UK, at about £11.50 a bottle.
* Berkmann Wine Cellars (020 7609 4711) launches Finca Antigua from Rioja giant Martinez Bujanda. The La Mancha-made wine is soft and juicy, and it's great value, at £4.53 a bottle.
* Pearl Vodka is American's fastest-growing vodka, UK distributor Paul Finch claims (01798 812522). An ultra-premium crafted from hand-selected Canadian soft winter wheat and Rocky Mountain water.
* Spirits of the Place (01332 381819) showed a Vinho Fino, a fortified wine made from Moscatel grapes and Aguardente from Vinicia Velha, distilled from fermented Baga grapes in Bairrada, then matured for 10 years in old port barrels.
* Grey Goose Le Citron made a splash on the Cellar Trends (01283 217703) stand, joining Grey Goose Original and Grey Goose L'Orange. The cult ultra-premium vodka is infused with the zest of fresh lemons and makes a mean Le Citron Martini.
* The world's largest glass manufacturer Luminarc launched a range of glassware especially for the on-trade called Le Palais. Call UK distributor Barnett on 0113 271 0033 for details.
Overheard at the fair…
Most inquisitive "I've heard Norton makes great Syrah," declares top chef Bruce Poole of London's one-Michelin-starred Chez Bruce, before marching off to taste it on the Argentina stand.
Most serious Top sommelier James Payne of Cumbria's Sharrow Bay hotel in deep conversation with Pinot Noir producers from New Zealand's Central Otago.
Most crowded "Just follow the fiesta," says a Rioja producer, directing the way to the Sherry Institute stand, where chef Sam Clarke of London restaurant Moro was offering tapas to match the different sherry styles. Two favourites were the dry amontillado with globe artichokes with cecina (oak-smoked beef from Leon) and the oloroso with tuna, sweet onion and piquillo pepper.
Most badly behaved "He thought it was Chardonnay," giggled an onlooker as a Gallo employee cleared up after a visitor who just couldn't hold her drink (literally).
Most noise The Western Wines after-show party on Trinity Buoy Wharf. Robbie Williams, Elvis Presley and Freddie Mercury - eat your heart out (and Michael Cox, you can stop dancing now).
Most wanted Boekenhoutskloof Syrah. "If you hurry, I think there's a drop left," urges Morfudd Richards of Lola's restaurant in London.
