No one is beyond criticism – so make the most of it
Criticism hurts. Savage words, carefully selected and caustically delivered, don't go away. Although their effect eventually diminishes, the memory of that swipe remains.
So it is with critics. They stay in hotels, they eat in restaurants. Then the worst happens. The verdict is a swingeing attack, a cleverly crafted web of words that seems to bear little relevance to the tasks of providing good hospitality or producing good food. Staff rally round, even declare the author of the bad news to be unwelcome in your establishment. "How could they?" "How unfair!" "I don't deserve that." And perhaps wounded pride overcomes all sense of logic.
It doesn't have to be all doom and gloom. Remember that critics exist as much to entertain as to provide detailed analyses of food. For many, their own personalities are as important as the views they express - their readers probably see it like that too.
Also, the visit of a critic does not have to be confrontational. What appears to be a threat can be turned into an opportunity. If it is known that a critic is coming, then play the game. Roll out the red carpet and give it your best shot. It may be a bit of a gamble, but if it comes off it's a lot cheaper than buying a page of advertising in national newspapers.
And if, despite all best efforts, it goes horribly wrong, then weather the storm. Newspaper articles, read by a minority of the population, are quickly forgotten. Their long-term effect on business is negligible. Last year Edinburgh-based restaurateur Andrew Radford suffered a swipe against his Atrium restaurant at the hands of Daily Telegraph critic Bill Knott. Twelve months later the Atrium is still there, and Radford's empire is about to expand to Glasgow (Caterer, 21 January, page 8). So much for the impact of bad news.
Equally, a good review is no guarantee of success. David Adlard, proprietor of Norwich-based Adlards, nearly went bust last summer because business was so bad (Caterer, 19 November 1998, page 7) - and this despite receiving a high rating from critics.
Potentially more damaging are the opinions of fellow operators, the most dangerous critics of all. A slight mark on the cutlery, a chip on a side plate can launch a vitriolic attack. "Did you see that asparagus spear? It was a millimetre further to the right than it should have been." Such encounters have been the catalysts for well-publicised spats that do the industry few favours.
Finally, take a step back. Could it be that the critic has a point? Any group or individual that puts itself up to take money is open to scrutiny. Authors, designers, film-makers and car manufacturers are constantly at the mercy of the opinions of others. Hotels and restaurants are in the same situation, and to view themselves as beyond criticism would be arrogant. n
Jenny Webster
Deputy Editor
Caterer & Hotelkeeper
