Perthshire pearl

Sharon McCord discovers the gastronomic delights served up by chef-patron Tom Lewis at Monachyle Mhor hotel, which helped it to win the Flavour of Scotland category in last year's Scottish Thistle Awards.

It's a characteristically grim Monday in late March and a stream of cars rumble along the narrow dirt track that borders the tranquil Loch Voil. Their destination is Monachyle Mhor, a pretty 10-roomed farmhouse hotel and restaurant nestling in the Brae of Balquhidder and overlooking Loch Voil, Loch Doine and the majestic Perthshire hills beyond. With shaggy Highland cattle grazing nearby, the view from the conservatory restaurant at Monachyle Mhor is archetypal Scottish picture postcard but it's not just the scenery that lures visitors here.

Chef-patron Tom Lewis's fame is spreading steadily, guaranteeing him hefty lunch bookings even on such a dismal day. During the summer and at weekends the 40-seat restaurant is always fully booked and the bulk of his clientele is local regulars rather than tourists.

Lewis's consistently inventive ways with Scottish produce and the laid-back, friendly atmosphere at Monachyle helped to scoop the Flavour of Scotland category in last year's Scottish Thistle Awards. This achievement was all the more remarkable considering 32-year-old Lewis is self-taught and donned his whites only six years ago. Having travelled across America and New Zealand, labouring on cattle ranches and sheep farms, he returned to the Perthshire farm where his family, originally from Wales, settled 18 years ago. His mother, Jean, had converted the farmhouse into a small hotel five years previously and Lewis joined the family business somewhat reluctantly. "I didn't have enough money to buy my own farm so I began working at the hotel," he explains. "I hated it at first but then I became interested in my mother's cookbooks."

Initial curiosity led to unbounded enthusiasm, and Lewis soon took over the kitchen. Two sous chefs work in rotation, meaning Lewis is usually aided by only one other hand in the kitchen. "I'm constantly amazed that my cooking works out so well," he grins. "I always feel like I'm winging it but I get great feedback so I must be doing something right." He cherishes his culinary library, which encompasses the esoteric to the sublime, from an ancient copy of Tasty Tit-Bits and Dishes Dainty by Lady Constance Howard to Your Place or Mine? by Jean-Christophe Novelli. But one heavy, well-thumbed tome is the undoubted jewel in his collection. "This is the one!" he exclaims, thumping Larousse's Gastronomique down on the table. "This book has been the main influence on my cooking style; I use it every day."

With no experience of any kitchen but his own, Lewis has developed instinctively as a chef. Heavily influenced by classical French recipes, his style is shaped primarily by the availability of local, seasonal produce - a factor which helped to clinch the Flavour of Scotland award, with the judges applauding his commitment to the principles of Natural Cooking of Scotland (see panel).

His larder is stocked with grouse and venison he shoots himself, lamb from his father Ron's farm, fish from the lochs and an array of produce from his extensive organic garden - leeks, onions, peas, potatoes, cabbages, carrots, rhubarb, spinach, fennel, radishes, beetroot and a wide selection of herbs. "I like to play around with herbs and spices, although I don't like using fresh coriander as I find it too overpowering," Lewis says. "And I think lemon grass is overrated but I do love wasabi and use it a lot." Currently on the menu is roasted wild sea bass with scallops and mussels on a pumpkin and thyme rosti, saffron and chive liquor.

Lewis enjoys cooking with his own favourite ingredients, which means an emphasis on game, offal and fresh fish - and Parma ham, which he cures from his own hand-reared pigs. Constant change keeps him invigorated. "I always adapt the menus according to the weather; if the sun shines I'll decide to cook something lighter, which means they hate me in the kitchen. At six o'clock I'll often decide to change the whole menu. If it has become chilly I want to put something comforting, like risotto or mash, on the menu." His attention to detail extends to service and he always puts in an appearance in the restaurant to meet his customers personally.

While his parents still live in the farmhouse, Lewis and his wife Angela (an Australian who arrived for a working holiday six years ago, married Lewis two and a half years later and now manages front of house) have a house in nearby Strathyre. It's little more than a sleepover spot for Lewis, who is at the restaurant from 8am until midnight seven days a week.

He admits that the downside of such commitment is that it denies him the chance of sampling other chefs' wares. "Although last year Angela and I did drive all the way to Cornwall to Rick Stein's place. His food is so good because it's so simple," he says.

He muses that one of the main benefits of winning the award and attending the gala ceremony last year was the rare opportunity to meet and mix with other chefs and he has stayed in touch with Tony Heath, whose Perth restaurant Let's Eat was a finalist in the category. The recognition has certainly boosted Lewis's reputation, but he believes the main reason his business has flourished is because of personal recommendations.

"People come here and don't know what to expect and I like the idea that they are pleasantly surprised. I treat my customers as I like to be treated myself," he says. Lewis tips his hat to the industry across the water. "I try to emulate the service you get in Ireland. The Irish like taking your money off you, but the service is so friendly you are happy to give it."

Monachyle Mhor hotel, Balquhidder, Lochearnhead, Perthshire. Tel: 01877 384622. www.monachylemhor.com.

Scottish Thistle Awards

The Scottish Thistle Awards 2002, launched on 10 April at the VisitScotland Expo in Glasgow, reward excellence in Scotland's tourism industry and encourage professionalism, innovation and creative thinking.

"The awards provide the perfect opportunity for businesses throughout the tourism industry to showcase excellence and highlight the quality products and services we have to offer in Scotland… and are open to all businesses within the tourism industry, no matter how large or small," announced Peter Lederer, chairman of VisitScotland.

While the Scottish Thistle Awards are entering their 11th year, the Flavour of Scotland category is in its fifth year and again sponsored by Caterer & Hotelkeeper.

It is open to restaurants, hotels, tea rooms and pubs which have adopted the ethos of the Natural Cooking of Scotland - a business development initiative which aims to improve the quality of food available to visitors.

The judges are looking for venues that have used quality Scottish produce, well cooked and presented within a welcoming and customer-friendly environment.

The results will be announced at a gala dinner in Edinburgh on 25 October. Details available at www.scotexchange.net.