Preston party animals
Recession-weary seekers of the feel-good factor will be heartened to know that it is to be found by the bucketful at Ian Boasman's Bistro French, Preston's very own version of the Cavern. But only if you're lucky enough to squeeze a look-in.
Boasman's famed soul nights have gone down so well with partygoers from as far as 200 miles away that tickets (costing up to £35 per head) are sold out and deposits paid at least three months in advance. This year's main Christmas events were booked up by February.
What they are scrambling for is not so much the three-course meal - described realistically by head chef Terry Hayes as "consistently good value, but not excellent" - rather, a dollop of nostalgia.
Bands thumping out soul sounds of the 1960s and 1970s fill out a programme of erstwhile stars recycling their greatest hits. Marty Wilde, Bobby Vee, Joe Brown, the Drifters and the Three Degrees have all played the Bistro.
Regular customers include Alan Shearer, Brian Robson and Dennis Taylor. The night Blackburn Rovers won the Premier League Cup the entire squad turned up.
The customers who fill the 100-cover restaurant, mostly over the age of 30, love it. "They come for a bloody good night out," says Boasman with typical subtlety. "And that's what they get."
Dancing on the tables after dinner is rumoured to be part of the package. A disclaimer appears on the menu, though Boasman's lips are sealed on the issue. "‘Well, it's illegal, isn't it?"
Born in Manchester's Moss Side, Boasman - whose name is incorporated into that of the restaurant - says he always knew where he wanted to be, but never consciously planned a career move in his life.
He opened the restaurant in 1977. "There was a definite niche in the market," he says, though at the time French cuisine was still held in awe, at least up north. "Everyone thought it was just garlic, frogs' legs and snails." He financed the venture partly through a bank loan, partly through personal investment.
At the time he knew little about catering although he soon learnt when a chef walked out just a few weeks after the opening. His timing, however, turned out to be spot-on.
Boasman's personal dislike of hushed restaurants meant that music featured strongly from the beginning, although his first cabaret - a comedy duo - was not booked until Christmas 1988. The venture proved painful. "About three people turned up. We all had a great night but I lost a lot of money."
The following year he had another go, this time as a music-only venue, but the recession hit hard. "I had already signed contracts on acts 12 months ahead, so those had to be paid for," he explains. But the rough ride taught him caution and now no booking is confirmed without a £10 deposit per head. It does not deter customers - Boasman estimates that a minimum of £1,000 a day is currently taken in deposits.
The outside of the restaurant, designed by Boasman, consists of an ivy-clad facade. This gives way to a stylish yet unpretentious interior incorporating exposed brick walls, a vaulted ceiling, timber floor and lashings of candlelight to create a relaxed, even seductive, setting. There are no windows. Gerry Marsden (of Pacemakers fame) is said to like it because it reminds him of the Cavern.
Tables at lunch, amounting to only passing trade (on average between 16-20 covers), are pushed together in rows and covered with bright plastic cloths. Crockery is basic and tough enough to withstand the "controlled hysteria" of party nights.
Profit margins are worked out on the cost of entertainment - up to £7,000 - and the number of covers varies accordingly.
Fixed prices keep things simple. Best value is Wednesday's five-course dinner (the only night without cabaret) at the all-in price of £10 for starter, entrée and main course, plus dessert and coffee with petits fours.
A typical meal might be foie d'agneau trifolati (slivers of lamb's liver sautéd in olive oil with garlic and lemon juice, finished with spring onions and parsley) followed by potage paysanne, then saumon aux asperges en croûte with seasonal vegetables or salad.
Bread is offered before the meal, portions are generous and coffee topped up. Vegetarians have a separate menu.
On Thursdays, similar fare but with lesser-known bands costs £15. But on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only three courses are offered on menus ranging from £25-£35. Tickets to see the biggest stars cost £40.
Bar profits are substantial. An average bar spend is £13-15 per head - not over the top considering the night lasts until 1-2am. A litre of house wine costs £12 but a more expensive list is available on request. At £25 the New Zealand Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc sells well.
Bookings are followed up by a request to arrive by 8pm on cabaret nights so tables can be cleared in time for 10.30pm when the bands go on.
Boasman values his staff, and for their benefit limits opening to five nights and three lunchtimes a week. "You can't expect them to give their best for more than that." As a result, they tend to stay - on average for 10 or more years.
He relies heavily on his long-time friend and manager Ron Phipps, but above all prizes the expertise of chef Hayes who, at 60, has long experience at home (the Savoy) and in Europe.
Hayes supervises three commis chefs and buys daily, shaping menus to take advantage of the best deals.
Everything, he says, is made fresh from scratch and waste cut to a minimum - habits learned in lean times. Bistro French is unique, he says. "I've never known a place like it in my life."
In contrast to the simple drinking tastes of the restaurant, upstairs houses a rare collection of more than 3,000 spirits and liqueurs - in the Guinness Book of Records - and an exceptional wine cellar boasting the finest vintages.
Wine enthusiast Boasman is the proud owner of the only three known bottles of White Chartreuse in the world. Not surprisingly, he laments the modern demand for Liebfraumilch, Lambrusco and bottled beers. The trend for drinking from the bottle makes him cringe. "But that's today's market."
Boasman puts the restaurant's popularity down to location - being at the hub of the motorway network - and the knack of hiring the right bands at the right time.
But the price of success has been high, involving risks and a punishing 90-hour week. Boasman smokes heavily and says he drinks up to 40 cups of coffee a day.
