Quirinale
Politicians and journalists might find sitting down civilly in the same room problematic in the current climate, so the owners of Westminster's Quirinale should be relieved that MPs have now packed up for the summer. Nobody wants a public slanging match in their restaurant.
That said, even the potent mix of lunchtime fallout from BBC offices just around the corner (not to mention those of Channel 4 and Sky) and rowdy Parliamentarians could not ignite in this super-cool, marble-walled dining room.
With its discreet 50 seats, this basement, formerly occupied by private-dining operation Congress, is perfect for concentrating on the accomplished Italian cooking of 33-year-old head chef Stefano Savio.
It's not strictly traditional: a main course of saddle of rabbit comes rolled and stuffed with spinach and apricot (£14), without the bones that rustic Italian cooking would leave in (Savio rightly predicts an unboned and uncleaned rabbit wouldn't go down well in a British restaurant).
And the sweet burst of apricot ("a good taste with the sweetness of the meat") owes more to his time in Toronto in the mid-1990s, when kaleidoscopic Californian cooking was the vogue.
He also points out that, with 20 different regions, Italian food is itself varied. So, on the summer menu there is a typical seaside starter of octopus and potato salad with tomato coulis (£9.50), while from Tuscany there is fett'unta, or "greasy slice".
Savio makes this with Tuscan bread rubbed with garlic and herbs, then soaked in olive oil and served with borlotti beans ("lovely and just in season"), tomato and Sardinian wild boar prosciutto (£9).
All dishes display Savio's approach to flavour - to let the fresh tastes speak for themselves through simple execution. A whole sea bream is accordingly cooked just in a salt crust to keep all the flavour trapped inside (£15). This makes for light, healthy eating, another summer Italian influence. "You should be able to eat three or four courses and still function," says Savio.
Pastas (from a menu of five, plus as many as three daily specials and a risotto) are almost all made on the premises. Savio uses plenty of authentic, speciality ingredients such as bottarga from Sardinia - a dried block made from salted fish roe - which can be shaved, as in this case, over spaghetti with swordfish, caper berries and cherry tomatoes (£9.50, or £13.50 as a main).
The same is true of the cheese board, which should be combed for its lesser known gems. When it's there, Bagoss - an almost spicy, hardish cheese from the village of Bagolino by Lake Garda near Brescia (where Savio grew up and went to catering school) - is a rare treat, as it's hard to find, even in Italy. The honeys, Marsala jelly and saba (similar to vincotto) are also must-haves.
Puddings are less rarefied - crumbles and home-made ice-creams - but the passion fruit, peach and banana coupe with coconut sorbet (£5.50) served in a martini glass is a delicious retro number made to refresh, and matches well with the delightful Moscadello di Montalcino from Castello Banfi (£32 per half-bottle). This wine has plenty of body, probably enough to drink it on its own, so that when paired with the crisp fruit it ends up wearing the trousers - but no matter.
Savio and his five chefs are busiest at lunchtimes, which is not surprising considering the location and the pricing. With no main course costing more than £15, there should be one thing that hacks and MPs can agree on - this represents very good value for money.
Quirinale, North Court, 1 Great Peter Street, London SW1P 3LL. Tel: 020 7222 7080
WHAT'S ON THE MENU
- Chilled tomato and cucumber soup topped with langoustine tails, £7.50
- Ravioli filled with aubergine and scamorza cheese with rocket pesto, £8.50/£12.50
- Tortelli stuffed with speck and taleggio with saut‚d broccoli and chilli, £9/£13.50
- Grilled pork medallions with tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, £13.50
- Grilled red mullet on a purée of celeriac, tomato, and spelt salad, with parsley oil, £14.50
- Dark chocolate tart with cherry ice-cream, £5.50
- Mixed berries with light cannoli cream, £5.50
CHEF'S CHEAT
"People say you resurrect fresh produce with cold water but, if your rocket is a day old and looking a little tired, put it in warm water, not cold, and it will come straight back to life."
