Rice squad

01 January 2000
Rice squad

Compared with other staple carbohydrates such as potatoes, rice is substantially cheaper, easier to prepare and more exotic, which means it can be easily sold at a premium.

For chefs working with large numbers and keeping a watchful eye on food costs, we have suggested five main-course dishes that use rice as a primary ingredient - paella, pilaf, kedgeree, biriani and jambalaya.

The combination of ethnic dishes and rice is good news for caterers, as rice makes expensive ingredients go further. For example, each serving of prawn biriani contains just 50g of prawns. Customers tend to focus on the high-value ingredient and overlook the fact that the dish is bulked out with rice.

Which rice variety?

Although there are more than 7,000 recorded varieties of rice, it can be split into two main groups: Japonica, a medium-sized, round grain which is sticky when cooked; and Indica, which is long-grained, with a fluffy texture when cooked.

  • Long-grain white is probably the most popular all-rounder, suitable for both hot and cold dishes. John Paterson, Sutcliffe head chef at Willis Corron says he uses only long-grain white for large numbers because it is more hardy and the most difficult to overcook.

  • Whole-grain rice (brown rice) has a nuttier flavour and contains more minerals, vitamins and fibre than its white counterparts. It is also suitable for both hot and cold dishes.

  • Short-grain rice is normally used in Western cooking for puddings. Many Japanese rices are short-grain, the stickiness making them suitable for sushi.

  • Basmati is for some the ultimate rice. Pearl-white with a subtle but distinct aroma, it has the curious property of growing longer during cooking. Basmati is most suitable for hot and spicy dishes such as curries and birianis, says Vince Kearney, executive chef at Mars Catering Europe (Master Foods).

If you are under pressure to reduce costs, a useful tip is to use a 50:50 mixture of basmati and long-grain. It will have the characteristics of the former in a diluted form.

Benefits of easy-cook rice

Having decided which kind of rice, the next question is whether to use parboiled - easy-cook rice - or ordinary rice. Parboiling may sound like a modern, mass-catering process, but it is in fact about 2,000 years old.

Cara Hobday, home economist for Tilda Rice, says that using parboiled rice has substantial advantages for caterers - particularly those dealing with large numbers.

"It does not require rinsing before or after cooking. Easy-cook rice absorbs more water, therefore producing a greater yield. While the cooking time is the same as conventional rice, it is more difficult to overcook - the grains are harder and therefore more difficult to burst."

Cost comparisons

If the cost of carbohydrates is compared by price per portion on the plate, rather than price per kg, rice performs well. Add to this the range of ethnic dishes in which rice plays a major part and there are a whole host of cost-effective menu ideas to choose from. A survey conducted recently for Uncle Ben's calculated that the labour costs of washing, peeling and converting potatoes into mash made them 50% more expensive than rice.

Cook by absorption or boiling?

Kearney advises cooking rice by absorption. Using a premeasured ratio of rice to liquid (water, stock or milk), cover and simmer with minimal stirring.

Resist the temptation to add more liquid if the rice is not cooked at the end of the cooking period, he says.

The ratio of liquid to rice should be reduced according to the number of portions being cooked. For example, a recipe for 200 will work on a ratio of 600ml of liquid to 450g of rice; for smaller quantities you'll need 900ml of liquid to 450g of rice.

Hobday says the measurements of rice and liquid can easily be misjudged in the hectic environment of a kitchen. So she prefers conventional boiling, removing the rice as it is cooked, refreshing and then reheating as required.

However, the absorption method has the advantage that once you have established your ratios, the approach is foolproof and can be delegated to anyone in the kitchen.

parboiled rice

Parboiled rice originated in India about 2,000 years ago, according to Sri Owen, author of The Rice Book (Doubleday, £20).

The paddy, which is rice that has been threshed from the stalk but is still in the husk, is soaked for several hours and then steamed for about 10 minutes. Then it is dried and milled.

This process offers two advantages. Some of the nutrients in the outer husk are forced back into the edible endosperm, retaining more protein and minerals than would normally be the case. Also, a hard shell is formed on the grain, which reduces its tendency to stick, because the grain is less inclined to burst and overcook.

The cost-benefit of easy-cook rice rests on its ease of use. Cooking time is the same as conventional rice, but the results are more consistent - there are fewer burst grains and the rice has a fluffier texture.

food safety and rice

If cooked rice is left at room temperature for several hours there is a risk of contamination by bacillus cereus.

This bacteria produces a toxin that can survive reheating. If eaten in sufficient quantities the toxin results in violent vomiting.

To avoid problems with bacillus cereus, cook rice thoroughly and cool batches of rice quickly. Keep the rice refrigerated before use. Most commercial parboiled rice will hold for four hours, but companies usually advise no longer than two hours.

Simon Fogg, hygiene and safety manager at Sutcliffe's City office advises using rice within 24 hours of cooking and refrigerating.

According to the company's guidelines, hot rice must be cooked quickly and reheated within two hours.

Cooking tips

  • Select the right pan. Low sides aid evaporation and a wide surface area ensures even heat distribution.

  • When using spices, cook over a gentle heat before adding the rice.

  • When cooking by absorption, make sure the stock has a light flavour.

  • Always cook more than you need. Excess rice can be used for stir-fries, salads and general bulking-out.

  • Cook, refresh and reheat to avoid soggy grains.

  • Never leave rice to cool at room temperature.

  • If rice is to be kept hot, ensure it is above 63ºC.

Cooking smaller quantities

  • Add a little oil to the water.

  • Lemon juice helps prevent grains breaking up.

  • Place a tea towel over the saucepan before putting the lid on to capture any excess steam once you have removed from the heat. This will ensure fluffy rice.

Cooking larger quantities

  • Select a sufficiently large pan - rice can end up being three times its original weight.

  • For quantities in excess of 100 portions, a bratt pan is the perfect cooking vessel.

Recipes supplied and adapted by Cara Hobday of Tilda Rice and Vince Kearney of Uncle Ben's(Mars Catering Europe/Master Foods)

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