Seaside special

There's been a sea change down on the Devon coast. Together with wife Holly, Tony Robson-Burrell, previously chef of the New Inn in Coln St Aldwyns, Gloucestershire, has opened an informal eaterie - RB's Diner - in Dartmouth, a town more famed for its naval college and cream teas.

The concept is all-day dining; eat what you want from the menu when you want - traditional fish and chips for elevenses if that's what takes your fancy. But will the concept catch on?

"We are trying to be a neighbourhood restaurant, which takes time," says Robson-Burrell. "We had an identity problem to begin with - people not knowing what we were doing. People still look at the menu and struggle to work it out."

That's hardly surprising when the menu is an array of hand-picked international favourites. "My wife and I have been travelling," explains Robson-Burrell, "and we've picked up bits and pieces from around the world. We try to mix it up.'

Breakfast from the 10-strong, all-day brunch menu draws on English or American comfort food and includes poached egg, spinach and bacon muffin (£5.95) and waffles with clotted cream or home-made ice-cream and a choice of topping (£3.25).

The 13 main courses take in everything from a light plate of linguini delicately topped with wilted rocket and parmesan (£8.25) to Indian spiced potato and chickpea fritters, served with a refreshing cucumber raitha (£7.50).

There is some finer cuisine, too, including the popular slow-roasted belly of pork, Thai style (£9.25), which is not too spicy but very flavoursome .

Despite the globetrotting, Robson-Burrell stresses the importance of simplicity. "We are an individual, local restaurant, getting back to basics. My idea of a burger is the best burger, made from 100% rump beef and done exactly how you want."

He is also keen on local produce. All poultry, which is free range and organic, is sourced from Camel Valley Poultry in Cornwall. "I'm into top-quality ingredients from local producers," he says, "and the idea of looking after local producers."

The restaurant can seat only 28 people, although Robson-Burrell, who manages all the cooking by himself, is not worried about quick turnover. "We can have people coming in just for dessert and that's fine. In the summer, if we were full, we took people's mobile phone numbers and called them when the table was ready."

RB's marks a change for Robson-Burrell, who in his time has headed the kitchens of Blakes hotel in London's South Kensington, the Greenway hotel in Cheltenham and Charingworth Manor in Chipping Campden, before moving to the New Inn.

Devon is undoubtedly a summer venue. The restaurant currently trades about half-full but gets busier at the weekends, when the local population is swelled by visitors. At present all-day dining is available only at weekends but will be offered six days a week from March through to November.

To attract more custom before high season, Robson-Burrell has set up a diners club that offers members 10% off and monthly promotions.

Average spend is about £20 in the evening and £10 during the day. For that price, Robson-Burrell jokes, "people are shocked by how good the food is". But he adds: "I want it to be an alternative to cooking at home, somewhere where people can come maybe two or three times a week."

RB's Diner, 33 Lower Street, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9AN
Tel: 01803 832882
E-mailinfo@rbsdiner.com

Chef's tip

Avoid sticking tatins and pies with a non-stick tarte tatin flexipan mould. Robson-Burrell's is made out of a rubber material, has 12 moulds to one sheet and a variety of shapes and sizes to choose from. Plus it's easy to wash. "It cost me £60 but is worth every penny. I get a consistent finish every time and no sticking or breakages."

RB's Diner - What's on the menu

\Waffle, clotted cream, apple and cinnamon, £3.25
* Vegetable spring rolls, Chinese leaves, cumin sauce, £4.50
* Seafood chowder, garlic mayonnaise and croûtons, £10.95
\Spicy sausage gumbo New Orleans style, served with mashed or new potatoes, £8.95
\Bread and butter pudding, amaretto liqueur, clotted cream, £4.50
\Toasted pecan and maple syrup ice-cream, praline sauce, nut brittle, £5.50