Stand out from the crowd
It is highly encouraging in these days of supermarket dominance that one of the most exciting tastings of the year is that hosted by the organisation called the Bunch.
The tasting is always held in early January. The Bunch is a grouping of seven of our leading independent wine merchants - Adnams (01502 727200), John Armit (020 7727 6846), Graham Chidgey (020 7589 6755), Lay & Wheeler (01206 764446), Tanners (01743 234500) and Yapp Bros (01747 860423). These days, Graham Chidgey is somewhat of a wild card. For many years he was boss of Laytons, but now he is sourcing French and Italian wines available through Decorum Vintners (020 7589 6755).
You can tell that this is a good tasting from the Press turnout. Virtually anyone who has pretensions to being a wine writer is there.
The New Generation, "wines from innovative wine-makers", was the theme for this year's tasting. Each Bunch member is allowed to show seven wines, and it is fascinating to note how they break down by country. In the 2000 edition France led, as usual, with 20 wines, but Italy showed strongly with 12. Then there was Spain with six wines, Australia with four, New Zealand with three, and one each from Austria, Chile, Germany and Switzerland.
As usual, there was a remarkably high strike rate of recommendable wines. Although most will need to be pushed in a restaurant, they will certainly add interest and variety to wine lists.
From Adnams, I enjoyed the ripe but well balanced 1998 Sémillon Sauvignon (£130.20) from Cullen in Australia's Margaret River, and the wonderfully elegant 1996 Riesling Grand Cru "Schlossberg" Domaine Blanck (£155.40). The voluptuous 1997 Santenay Premier Cru Les Gravières Domaine Girardin (£173.04) offers high-quality red Burgundy at a reasonable price.
Making its UK debut and due to arrive in April was 1998 Antiyal (£76.32 for six), a blend of Cabernet Merlot and Syrah from Alvaro Espinoza of Chile. Graham Chidgey had found a delicious 1997 Gigondas Château Ste Cosme (£98) and a lightly gamey 1997 Rosso di Montalcino, Castello di Argiano (£106). From Lay & Wheeler, I liked the 1998 Dolcetta d'Alba, Tigli Neri (£11.24) from Enzo Boglietti, and Henschke's 1998 Louis Sémillon (£101.88) from Eden Valley. Yapp Bros continues to explore the lesser known regions of France. The 1998 Jurançon Sec Domaine de Bellegarde (£70.20) is a snappy aperitif. Denis Ferrer and Bruno Ribière are new stars from Roussillon. Try their characterful 1998 Cuvée Centenaire: Cépage Carignan (£63). From the well-established Domaine Richeaume, they had 1998 Cuvée Columnelle (£135).
But look what happens when faced with a selection of wines of this quality - I've only space to suggest that you call John Armit and Tanners for a list.
by Jim Budd
