Standing up to the burgundy challenge

No other region of the world provides the challenge of Burgundy. And no-one knows this better than those who buy wines for restaurants. The red and white wines are sublime at their peak, but often disappoint when they are at less than their best.

Buyers know, too, that the wines are expensive. This goes to explain that despite its reputation, Burgundy features less emphatically on restaurant wine lists than Bordeaux, and less than it used to.

Its neglect in the UK is not mirrored in France, however. Sales of Burgundy in France rose 6% by volume in 1993/94 and represent 51% of all sales.

No serious wine list is complete without a Burgundy section, so it is best to face up to the challenge. Three brilliant vintages - '88, '89 and '90 - have helped strengthen its reputation. And if prices are still high, the rewards in terms of complexity and fineness of nose and palate are unequalled.

For a chance to invest seriously in Burgundy, consider the "en primeur" offer of the 1993 vintage from Bibendum issued this month.

The reds, in particular, look like being very special. There are more than 90 wines from 18 growers to choose from. Prices range from as little as £55 a case in bond, to £995 a case. For more information call 0171-916 7706.

For older Burgundy vintages from the great producers Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Rousseau, take a look at the special offer from Adnams Wine Merchants which cuts prices by 10%.

The offer lasts until the end of February. Call 01502 724222.