Taste of freedom
"The attraction of this restaurant for me is the chance to be individual and to be seen to be individual," says Trevor Blythe, head chef of the newly opened Pelham Street restaurant in South Kensington, London.
Classically trained in France, Blythe, who won the prestigious Roux Diners Club Scholarship in 1996, has worked at a number of prestigious establishments including Le Gavroche and Mallory Court in Leamington Spa. But he is now excited by the opportunity of more creative freedom. "A country house hotel is very traditional. London's a lot freer, you have a wider and more educated audience and it's not just whether food looks good but whether it works," he says.
Situated on two levels, Pelham Street can currently accommodate 84 diners but this is shortly to be reduced by 10 to increase the bar area. Covers have been running at approximately 45 for dinner and 25 at lunch. The eight front of house staff include two of the three owners, David Newton and Robert Shepherd.
Blythe describes his menu as modern French with diverse influences. There are eight starters, eight main courses, five desserts and cheese. An example of his style of cooking is the starter of Thai spiced roast chicken consommé with quails' eggs (£5). Another starter, tagliatelle of oysters with Champagne, caviare and chervil (£6.75), is indicative of Blythe's love of fresh fish. "Fish is a pleasure to cook as the quality is now so good and the choice so diverse," he says.
Blythe and his five-strong kitchen brigade are constantly experimenting with combinations. One dish that has brought an excellent response from diners is his grilled sturgeon, shallot, cucumber and balsamic jus (£14.50). The shallots and cucumber are cooked in a reduced wine. When the balsamic vinegar is reduced it takes on a sweetness which serves to "cut" the fat of the fish, says Blythe.
He is particularly pleased as sturgeon is relatively unfashionable in England: according to his supplier the only other restaurant ordering it is the Waterside Inn at Bray.
So what is Blythe's favourite dish? "The tart of confit of lamb and vegetables with foie gras is a bit of a star. The tart is made of very thin crisp pastry and the lamb is confitted in goose fat with a little slice of foie gras drawing out the fullest of flavours."
Desserts make good use of fruit, such as iced passion fruit crystaline with sugared red currants (£5).
Major changes to the menu will be seasonal. For instance, for the autumn Blythe is introducing braised sheep's head, in keeping with the season but lighter than the more common braised pig's head.
Average spend per head is about £25, excluding drinks, for dinner, but less at lunch when a set menu at £12.95 for two courses and £15.95 for three is also offered. n
Pelham Street Restaurant, 93 Pelham Street, London SW7. Tel: 0171-584 4788
