The no-strings diet

Christmas is in full swing at the Appletree Country Inn in Marton, North Yorkshire, as the worries of the autumn are left behind - but chef TJDrew faces a new challenge, as Sara Guild reports.

Melanie Thornton has guest beers such as Rosey Nosey from Bateman's, O Be Joyful from Brakspear, Santa's Progress from Daleside, and Rockin' Rudolph from Hardys & Hanson on tap at the bar. And she's dyed her hair red to get in the festive spirit.

Thornton's partner, chef TJ Drew, wanted to avoid the inevitable Christmas party menu and opted for putting seasonal items on the menu that changed at the beginning of December. Mustard-glazed goose sits on a bed of parsnip mash (£11.50), while the figgy pudding has sharp, brandied plums to accompany it (£4).

The pub has been busy throughout December with plenty of office parties booked in, some of which take over the larger of the two dining rooms. In these cases, Thornton has asked the party to preorder their food to make life easier in the kitchen, but has offered flexibility in the menu for those desperate for their turkey dinner - much to Drew's disgust. "He just says, ‘Oh, all right,' but I know he's not that happy about having to do turkey," she says, laughing.

Luckily the new part-time bar worker, Faye Groves, was on board before the big rush, and Thornton is hoping two more new staff will join towards the end of December.

Thornton's former employer, Tate-Smith, held its Christmas office party at the pub last weekend, and next weekend another large party of 30 will do the same.

Saturday will be busy, as there's also a party in the small dining room, and Thornton has agreed to do "posh nibbles" as outside catering for the 30th birthday party of one of her regulars. "At first I said no, but she only wants a few things, so TJ will go over for an hour, then I'll send one of the waitresses. I'm only two doors away, so I've told her to yell if there's trouble," says Thornton.

Trouble with the septic tank throughout the summer and autumn might be connected with the couple's ongoing electrical problems, whereby the power keeps shorting out. The electrician is working on it, but has yet to find the cause.

In an unfortunate accident during the moving of the septic tank and repaving of the car park, two trees in the orchard were damaged. The orchard carries a preservation order, and a local resident complained to the council, which is now considering whether to fine the developer and builder. Although it does not affect the pub, Drew and Thornton are annoyed that someone living so close is obviously against them.

"The council said if we'd applied for planning permission to remove the trees we would have got it, but I asked them how we were supposed to apply for planning permission for an accident," says Thornton. "We love our trees and use their fruit, but we've had to accept it as an accident and so should they."

Financially, November was an improvement after the appalling results of October. Trading was quiet, and it didn't help that the Appletree was closed for a week to give the couple some time off.

On an upswing

The total turnover of £14,500 in November was enough to cover the pub's costs for the first time since August. Thornton is optimistic about December, hoping for turnover of £18,000-£20,000, but she realises that the week after Christmas could be quiet.

New Year's Eve is fully booked, and the pair plan to close on 9 January for a two-week rest. The gentlemen's toilets will be decorated, and Thornton is hoping to get up to Scotland to visit her mother and step-brothers, whom she hasn't seen since starting at the pub in April.

There might also be another trip back to Winteringham Fields, for dinner, if Thornton wins a small wager with Drew. It seems that all the pre-Christmas tasting has taken its toll on his waistline and Drew is dieting to lose a stone by Boxing Day. If he fails, dinner's on him. Success will win him new strings for his electric guitar and sound-effects pedals. We'll keep you posted.

Next visit to the Appletree Country Inn: 14 February

The story so far

Melanie Thornton and chef TJ Drew have taken on the management of the Appletree Country Inn. All the nightmares of the autumn - septic tank problems, ruptured gas mains, electrical blackouts - have been put behind them as the Christmas season builds.

Appletree Country Inn

Marton, North Yorkshire
Tel: 01751 431457
Web site:www.appletreeinn.co.uk

Managers: Melanie Thornton and TJ Drew
Seats: 40

Financial performance (November)

Bar sales: £4,496
Food sales: £10,004
Covers: 708
Average spend: £20.50
Bar costs: £2,414
Food costs: £2,222
Wage costs: £4,941