The Norm for London

01 January 2000
The Norm for London

Fresh-Faced and brimming with enthusiasm, head chef David Endersby can't wait to see what folk think of Cheers London, a bar-restaurant based on the long-running US TV comedy.

At Cheers London, the show has given birth to the familiar central bar area with seating for 70, while baseball memorabilia and quick-fire ripostes from the programme's dialogue decorate the walls. A further 120 customers can be seated in the restaurant.

Launched in late summer, it wants to be known as a theme restaurant with a difference. Keen to distance the venue from the growing number of London theme restaurants, Endersby, who has previously worked at Planet Hollywood and Football, Football, stresses that here the emphasis is on the food as well as atmosphere and novelty.

"We're going for an older clientele here," he says. "It's not for the 18-21 crowd. It's more mellow and the focus is on the food, the quality of service and about encouraging good conversation between staff and customers."

The tongue-in-cheek menu and occasionally cryptic food names are certainly likely to spark a few words of enquiry.

Take scrod and chips (£7.95). Described on the menu as "Boston beer-battered and served with two dipping sauces", the name foxed even Endersby when he first saw it. Scrod is a 200-year-old New England word and means the white fish of the day.

Having consulted with renowned Vermont-based chef Ann Cooper, Endersby flew to Boston to research the region's food and dining-out culture. Cooper devised the menu according to dishes that would best reflect what folk in New England eat.

With the zeal of a convert, Endersby raves about Boston, its buzz, friendliness and cuisine.

He explains: "I'm a real beef person and think of myself as quite patriotic and have always believed British beef was best, despite BSE. Then I tasted American beef and it was amazing. So we use American beef in all our burgers and for our sirloin steak.

"Before going to the USA, I had also thought that lobster was a very elitist, expensive item, an acquired taste. I'd never tried it until I went there. Now, I really enjoy it. There aren't many theme restaurants where you'll get fresh Maine lobsters!" Stuffed and baked whole lobster is £15.95, while steamed lobster is £14.95.

The ubiquitous tastes and flavours of New England pop up across the menu reflecting the area's twin access to ocean and farmland. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl (£5.75) evokes as much a feel for the region as does the mention of cranberries and maple syrup.

In true US style, Cheers London serves giant portions and despite some customer feedback saying that servings are too large, the restaurant will continue this policy as it believes the perception of value for money is important.

The variety of dishes is also generous. There are seven starters, two salads, three pizzas, seven sandwiches, a clutch of burgers and nine main dishes. Children enjoy their own choice of six items.

In keeping with the show, Cheers London places a big stress on its beer and boasts of being the first UK venue to serve the honey-coloured Samuel Adams Boston Beer on tap.

Already, CNN has been in to do a piece on a little bit of America in London and it even found a local called Stan who has taken to the bar, à la Norm.

Cheers London 72 Regent St, London W1R 6EL. Tel: 0171-494 3322

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