The Old World defies new conventions

01 January 2000
The Old World defies new conventions

Fighting one's way round a crowded Olympia it was interesting to see how, amid the wines in the traditional styles of Europe from the Americas, Australia, New Zealand and Eastern Europe, traditional regions of Europe are holding their own.

Sometimes the style is traditional, but sometimes it submits to the influence of the New World with its emphasis on grape variety.

It makes you wonder whether there is a risk that all wine will in time be made the same way from the same grapes. Fortunately, regional characteristics survive. In France, Germany, Italy and Spain there are wines with strong regional characteristics and enough confidence to stand up without the influence of varietal labels.

From Sicily were wines made from Catarratto, Ansonico, Damaschino, Greganico, Nero D'Avola, Nerollo Mascallese and Zibibbo grapes. Oh, and Chardonnay too!

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