The test of charity
The food side of Overton Grange is going well. The hotel's food sales for August accounted for 40% of the month's total takings.
But staffing in the restaurant has been rocky, with waitress Claire Penfound departing at the beginning of September, leaving Igi Gonzalez to cope on his own.
Charitable thoughts do not come easily to the partners at Overton Grange. A charity evening planned for 24 September was cancelled by the organisers a mere 20 minutes before chef Adrian Jones was due to order the food.
Jones's partner, Igi Gonzalez, says the cancellation was because the charity had failed to rally enough interest, but he is still annoyed and believes his goodwill has been undermined. The charity, Victims Support - for victims of crime - had been booked into the Shropshire Suite at no charge and Gonzalez had agreed to provide Spanish food at cost for up to 100 people. Jones had planned to serve gazpacho, salt cod and crème caramel.
"We're all disappointed," says Jones. "Igi especially, as we had broken our backs to do something cheap and he had even organised flamenco dancers."
Fortunately, because the supplies had not been ordered, the pair lost no money. Even so, the cancellation caused much inconvenience as staff rotas had been rearranged and the entertainment booked.
"It's embarrassing for us to cancel other people," says Gonzalez. "Also, because I'm Spanish and it was a Spanish theme I was really looking forward to it."
As always, Gonzalez's positive attitude triumphs. But he is feeling the strain. Whereas in the summer it was Jones who was desperately in need of time off, now it is his turn. The loss of waitress Claire Penfound, who left for a better-paid job nearer home, means that despite the help of casual waiting staff he is working harder than ever - 16 to 17 hours a day, seven days a week.
To get back on an even keel, Gonzalez is seeking a replacement for Penfound and a restaurant manager who can double up as a waiter. He may have someone lined up for the latter post.
When Gonzalez eventually brings his recruits on board, he will continue to push training, taking the Continental view that being a waiter is a profession. "You have to make something of it - be the very best. I want someone who will learn with me and who wants to enter competitions such as the Savoy Education Trust Food Service Award," he says.
This policy is mirrored in the kitchen, which has fewer staff problems than the restaurant. Jones continues to broaden the experience of his sous chef, John Whelan, and demi chef, Rob Brown, by sending them to work in other kitchens, including Simply Nico in London and Tyddyn Llan in Llandrillo, Clwyd. An exchange of chefs with Hambleton Hall near Oakham in Leicestershire, is also on the cards.
"It stops them getting bored and they see the grass isn't always greener. They also bring back new ideas," adds Jones.
Jones is hoping this strategy will continue to improve the food and draw more attention to Overton Grange. He is particularly excited about a second visit from an Egon Ronay's Guides inspector and is certain Overton Grange will appear in the next guide, due in November.
His main hope, however, is that the AA will boost Overton Grange's two rosettes to three by the end of the year.
"There's no reason why we shouldn't get it," he says confidently. "We just have to prove consistent quality."
His bravado is well-founded - he has a stack of letters from customers praising his food, and, as yet, no negative feedback.
There is plenty for Jones and Gonzalez to smile about on the financial front, too. August, with total takings of £29,511, was the best month's trading to date, and September looks promising, with £15,507 taken in the first two weeks.
"There are peaks and troughs," says Jones. "But we're happy."
Restaurant business in particular is gathering momentum, although high food sales in August, at 40% of total takings, were mainly down to the three functions held that month on top of regular business.
The pair had inherited bookings for two wedding receptions for 76 and 80 guests respectively, as well as a finger buffet for 200. But the partners do not intend to pursue this type of business. The functions set a frenetic pace, and the chefs were far from happy with the inherited £4.25-a-head finger buffet menu of cheese and pineapple sticks, vol-au-vents and sausage rolls.
"It was hard work," says Jones. "And we were not happy producing that sort of food."
When the frenzy was over, Gonzalez and Jones took stock and decided to scale functions down. The aim now is to produce quality food for fewer people and charge more.
As well as the restaurant, Overton Grange's 16 bedrooms are also filling up. Occupancy figures for September, at 44% for the first three weeks, look set to rival August's record 46%.
The BBC, following a booking in mid-August, has negotiated a deal that will see a minimum of five people stay at least three nights a week for the next seven months.
The TV crew is working on a documentary project and has persuaded Gonzalez, ever reluctant to do a deal, to offer them double room with dinner, bed and breakfast for £54.
While the BBC crew is staying at the hotel, Jones and Gonzalez may make it on to the small screen themselves as part of a Granada production for Sky on the next generation of chefs. Jones filmed an interview and Gonzalez is to have a screen test this month. Characteristically, he is confident: "I'm thinking of weird things to impress them with, but I'm not nervous," he says.
With Christmas less than 10 weeks away and enquiries coming in from regular visitors, Gonzalez and Jones are already putting the thwarted charity evening behind them. Their focus now is on how to mark their first Christmas at the hotel.
Next visit to Overton Grange: 31 October
