Third chef asks for a star to be withdrawn

A French chef has followed the example of Marco Pierre White and Nico Ladenis and has asked Michelin to downgrade his restaurant in the 2000 guide, which is published in France next Tuesday (29 February).

Jean-Luc Hatet, owner of the one-star La Chancelière in Montbazon, near Tours, asked Michelin to take his star away because he is simplifying the menu.

Last month, Michelin admitted that it had removed London restaurants the Oak Room Marco Pierre White and Chez Nico at Ninety Park Lane from the UK guide following discussions with the chefs (Caterer, 20 January, page 5).

Hatet said: "The management of Michelin understood my circumstances and I think what I have done will give ideas to other restaurateurs in France."

He said that diners in France are increasingly turning against paying the prices which a Michelin-starred restaurant commands, and many do not have the time to spend hours eating. Hatet added: "The other problem is that people don't want to have to dress up and wear a jacket when they go to a restaurant."

Hatet wants the star, which La Chancelière has held since 1984, to be replaced with a Bib Gourmand, which symbolises good food at moderate prices. The restaurant is closed for refurbishment and will reopen on 2 March as a bistro.

Meals used to cost £50 per head and specialities included frogs' legs with a garlic and nut sauce, oven-baked turbot with tarragon mousse, and charcoal-braised veal with lime butter.

When it reopens set meals will cost £13, £16.50 or £23. Michel Janjneux will remain head chef.

by Louise Bozec

Source: Caterer & Hotelkeeper magazine, 24 February - 1 March 2000