Tide turns for Riesling
Do you want to know how to please the critics? Get more Riesling on your wine list. This was the suggestion of top sommelier Matthieu Longuère, at London's La Trompette. Why? Because Riesling is one of the world's few truly great grapes. Yes, it has had a tough time in restaurants in recent years (thanks to Liebfraumilch), yet it produces some of the finest dry white wines in the world - and some serious sweet wine.
Most of it is grown in Germany, where, without losing its identity, it reflects the different soils and microclimates in which it is grown better than almost any other grape, from the steely styles of the Saar to the oily, pungent wines of the Pfalz, as well as scaling the heights over the border in Alsace.
It's an early ripener, so it suits the cool climates of Germany, Austria and Alsace, but now it is planted all over the southern hemisphere - shining particularly in Australia, where the warmer weather lends the wine a racy, limey character.
Riesling also has enormous ageing potential - a 20-year-old still turns heads. And it's extraordinarily aromatic, with flavours ranging from a basket of fruits to honey, flowers and, distinctly, petrol (a good thing - honest).
One more thing (and this is an important feature): Riesling is fantastic with food. It makes a match for a vast range of foods, including several which defeat other wines - from cold roast meats to tricky mustard and capers, pungent beetroot, astringent tomatoes and even smoked mackerel. Now do you see why Longuère and the critics love it so much?
To mark its greatness, Charles Taylor Wines and Siegel Wine Agencies put on a major tasting of Riesling in London recently. Jancis Robinson MW and famous Australian producer Brian Croser kicked off the event.
Both agreed that the tide was finally turning for Riesling. "The reason I'm here today," says Robinson, "is that I feel Riesling is an underdog, but the pro-Riesling movement has been so good recently that I'm not sure whether it needs any more support - I might be volunteering for the pro-Chardonnnay rally next year."
She adds: "In the USA, there is a great swell of enthusiasm for the grape." And she acknowledges the role that the screwcap has played in helping Riesling to gain prominence. "It has energised Riesling," she says.
Austria has played a big part, too. "The fact that Austria is making Riesling of such consistently high quality has upped the game," Robinson says.
Croser confirms that, in Australia, there is a scramble going on for the top 2002 Rieslings.
Are you convinced? It may be time to consider an injection of Riesling to your list.
Five Rieslings to consider
* 2001 Schieferterrassen Heymann-Löwenstein, Mosel, Germany (£8.17, Morris & Verdin, 020 7921 5300)
* 2002 Petaluma Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia (£6.24, Mentzendorff, 020 7840 3600)
* 2001 Riesling Alte Reben, Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, Austria (£11.89, FWW Wines, 020 8567 1589)
\* 2001 Graziosa Riesling, Peter Jakob Kuhn, Rheingau, Germany (£8.22, Charles Taylor Wines, 020 7928 8151)
\* 1999 Riesling Grand Cru Hengst, Josmeyer, Alsace, France (£12.29, Pol Roger, 01432 262800)
All prices quoted are per bottle, excluding VAT.
Shorts
Barbados, here we come Mount Gay Rum is celebrating its 300th anniversary with a couple of new cocktails plus parties galore - if you happen to be in Barbados. It has also published a recipe book, which will be available in the UK later this year. Mount Gay's head bartender, Chesterfield Browne, gives us Regal Pleasure: shake over ice two shots of Mount Gay Extra Old, one shot of amaretto, ¾ shot of Bols Crème de Bananes and four shots of pineapple juice. Pour into a highball glass and garnish with a pineapple slice and a mint sprig.
Buy British Make a note in your diary for English Wine Week 2003, which runs from 24 May to 1 June. The national campaign from English Wine Producers (EWP), run in conjunction with Food From Britain, will promote English vineyards and their wines, along with their natural link with regional food. Participating vineyards will throw open their doors with special events and tastings. For more information, check out the EWP website: www.englishwineproducers.com.
Rhone sale of the century
Sotheby's will be selling an impressive wine collection from the Rhöne on 21 May in London. Highlights include Côte Rôtie from Guigal, including La Landonne 1982, plus La Turque 1990, and wine from the legendary Hermitage La Chapelle. In addition, there will be some top Bordeaux and Burgundy included in the sale, with classics such as Cheval Blanc and Romanée-Conti. Go treat yourself.
Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder
Where to drink absinthe in London is included in the recently published and updated Time Out Pubs & Bars Guide (£6.99), plus where to drink the best Champagne, beer and spirits. This year, the guide is also offering free drinks, and includes vouchers for some of the city's top bars.
