Tipple of the town
Gearóid Devaney knew that it would take something special to lure him back to London after he had worked with top Paris chef Pierre Gagnaire. It was. "As soon as I heard about it, I knew that it was the only thing I wanted to do," says the sommelier, with a grin.
He's talking about London's much-awaited opening, Tom Aikens, in Chelsea, where Devaney has put together a 450-bin wine list - his first from scratch. "It's been a learning experience," says the 27-year-old.
Aikens and his wife, Laura, opened their restaurant in Elystan Street just over a month ago, but it has been packed ever since (Caterer, 1 May). Other folk have been flocking to see what Aikens is capable of, after he won two Michelin stars for his cooking at just 26 years of age while at London's Pied à Terre.
Devaney's wine list is under similar scrutiny, although it is turning out to be something of a challenge, as Aikens is constantly tweaking the menu - an ingredient here, a new sauce there. "It keeps me on my toes," says Devaney, "and it allows me to suggest many different wines."
So where did he start? "First," he says, "I considered the customers. Just because many of them live in Chelsea, it doesn't mean they want to spend a lot of money on wine. Second, I had to consider Tom's food. And finally, my own personal preferences. I don't like anything too big and over-extracted, and I don't think there's anything wrong with the fact that I always come back to France."
French wines make up 65% of the list, with the rest pulled from all over the winemaking globe - though Australia, California, New Zealand and Italy provide the lion's share of the remainder. The list is organised geographically, rather than by variety. "I still think people have their country preferences," Devaney explains, "and it makes it more manageable."
He juggles 30 suppliers in all, but space is tight, so he rarely keeps more than three bottles of each wine, though his suppliers keep back unpaid reserves for him. "They've been good like that," he says.
What, then, are chef Aikens's preferences? His father and grandfather were both wine merchants, so he knows a thing or two about wine. "He particularly likes Condrieu and southern French spicy reds," reveals Devaney. "We've both spent time in Paris - me with Gagnaire, Tom with Robuchon."
And Devaney himself? "Where to start?" he ponders. "A particular favourite is the Leon Barrel 1999 Cuvée Jadis, Faugeres - it's fantastic." He would also include a Rheingau Riesling in his current hot list (Georg Breuer's 2001 Riesling Sauvage) and an Australian Shiraz (2000 Kilikanoon from the Clare Valley). "Softer reds suit Tom's food best - Grenache, particularly," says Devaney.
On the white front, Devaney is looking for "more sun, more ripeness", such as Chardonnay from Limoux (Caves de Sieur d'Arques) or, if it's Burgundy, wines from the Chalonnais and Mâconnais.
Though there are just 15 wines offered by the glass, Devaney claims he will open anything at up to £50 a bottle if his customers want to try something in particular. "Wines by the glass are selling better than expected," he reports. "More and more are asking for a wine to go with each course."
Shorts
French matching challenge The French Wines Match National On-Trade Competition was such a success last year that they're doing it again this year. Organised by Sopexa UK (020 7312 3636) as part of its ongoing French Wines Campaign, aimed at stimulating interest in French wines in the on-trade, the competition challenges sommeliers and chefs to create the most original and unusual matching of French wines with food.
To enter, get an entry form from Sopexa, or log on to www.frenchwinesexperience.co.uk and choose any French wines to go with a two-course menu from a basket of ingredients. The judging panel includes Richard Corrigan of Lindsay House, and the prize is a week in the French wine region of your choice, or £2,000 towards the latest kitchen kit.
New cocktails galore
The third volume of Sauceguide to Cocktails has hit the shops and is even bigger than before, with 1,400 recipes, 260 of which are brand new, boasts editor Simon Difford. Each recipe is easy to follow, with a colour photo to guide you, plus there's a new guide at the back with a list of 200 cocktails which can be made from just 10 different spirits and liqueurs. Price is £9.97 from all good bookshops.
Stings like a bee
Bee Sting is Brakspear's seasonal cask offering for June. Brewed using Maris Otter crystal malt, and blended with malted wheat and pinhead oats, it's spiced up with Oxfordshire honey and 100% English Fuggles hops, and is made by the Wychwood brewery (01993 890890).
More Krug, darling?
London's Dorchester hotel has unveiled the Krug Room - a chef's table to beat them all. Located deep within the bowels of the hotel, the hi-tech room (with opaque glass that becomes transparent at the flick of a switch) seats 12, and diners can spend all night feasting on executive chef Henry Brosi's tasting menu and slurping Krug, including Krug Clos du Mensil 1986 and Krug vintage 1988. Cost is £70 for a three-course lunch (not including bubbly).
