Transatlantic

Food and wine paintings by local artists decorate the walls of Smith's restaurant in Sheffield. But it's not the artwork that immediately catches the eye, it is the restaurant's walls and ceiling, which are draped with calico.

"The decision was totally controlled by price - it was cheap," explains Smith, who opened the eaterie 13 months ago in partnership with his wife, Victoria, and their friends John and Sallie Tetchner.

However, it is the quality of food cooked by Smith and his kitchen brigade of three, rather than the decor, that brings in the diners. In its relatively short life, Smith's has already achieved three AA rosettes and Michelin Red M status.

A glance at the seasonally guided, fortnightly changing menu, drawn up by Smith and his chef de partie, Jamie Taylor (formerly of Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons), shows distinct American influences - a result of an executive chef stint by Smith at Sir Bernard Ashley's Keswick Estate hotel in Charlottesville, Virginia.

For instance, among the choice of five starters on offer, diners may find New England cod chowder (£5) or, listed with the main dishes, a sautéd salmon with avocado compôte, garlic king prawn and a red pepper dressing (£12).

Another dish often offered as a special is a spicy king prawn cake, served with a deep-fried sweet potato basket and spicy Asian pesto (£7). Smith says: "I learnt how to cook it in New York - the cake's made with raw prawn, deep-fried, and has 13 ingredients, including lemon grass, coriander, lime and galangal. The pesto's got peanuts, coconut milk and chillies in it."

He adds: "I like to use fish. My dishes are either cooked very slowly or grilled quickly."

Wherever possible, Smith likes to use local suppliers. Honey, cheese and herbs all come from the surrounding area, and seasonal game is bought in from the nearby Chatsworth estate.

Customers in the 40-cover-a-night restaurant tend to be local business and professional people, including lecturers from the city's university. "Originally," says Smith, "we hoped to attract a younger clientele but it's become more of an occasion restaurant, so we've had to alter the style of food slightly."

Accordingly, there are always more classically based choices on the menu, particularly in the five-strong dessert selection - crème brûlée with a compôte of Yorkshire rhubarb and shortbread biscuit (£4) is a favourite.

Spend per head in the Tuesday-to-Saturday, evening-only, establishment varies between £25 and £30 inclusive of wine, depending on the day of the week. The wine is Victoria's responsibility, as is the team of three who work front of house.

The 130-strong wine list is supplied by Norfolk-based merchant T&W Wines, which buys stock from small vineyards. Price range is £8-£40, the greatest volume being sold in the £10-£18 bracket. Vanel Sauvignon (French, £12.70) is the most popular.

Coffee, served in cafetiäres, and a range of speciality and herbal teas are served with home-made truffles (£1.50).

The first year of business has been so successful that Smith has already bought the premises next door to expand into. "I'm also hoping to take on another sous chef by opening a service on Sunday," he concludes.

Smith's of Sheffield, 34 Sandygate Road, Sheffield. Tel: 0114-266 6096