Traveller's fare

WITH black leather banquettes, red chairs and a floor-to-ceiling black-and-white picture of bicycle wheels, the newly refurbished Gresslin's in London's exclusive Hampstead could hardly be more different from its previous incarnation.

In its former existence, the restaurant sported wooden tables - no tableclothes - exuding a no-frills ambience. However, this was decor somewhat at odds with the sophisticated dishes cooked by chef-proprietor Michael Gresslin and his three-strong kitchen brigade and served by the front-of house team of five.

Those dishes reflect German-born Gresslin's international career. His early days were spent in Germany, followed by a spell cooking in Sri Lanka and a UK career spanning stints with Anton Mosimann, the Belfry, and with Peter Kromberg at the Hotel Inter-Continental London.

Gresslin's global experiences go some way to explaining some of his surprising ingredient combinations. "I don't want to be limited to one cuisine when I've got the whole planet to choose from," he says.

In the seven-choice dessert selection on the monthly changing à la carte menu, for example, poached pears are served with mascarpone and five-spice roulade and a red wine sauce (£4.50); while chocolate indulgences come not only in ever-popular conventional forms such as like fondant, but also as chocolate and egg plant parcels "Valentino", with stem ginger cream (£4.40).

"They are the idea of my sous chef Valentino Bosch and are made by putting sponge inside slices of egg plant, deep frying them, then coating them with chocolate and serving them cold," says Gresslin, adding that he is toying with the idea of tweaking the dish and serving the parcels hot.

International influences among the six-strong starter and eight-strong main menu offerings include the best-selling grilled scallops, chorizo, creamy mash and wild garlic sauce (£7.50); steamed tiger prawns, asparagus, lambs' lettuce and sesame seeds (£7.50); teriyaki duck breast, stir-fried leeks and egg-fried rice (£15.50); rolled loin fillet of lamb and spinach, sautéd Jerusalem artichokes and spicy bean sauce (£16.50); and seared tuna loin with poppy seeds, egg noodle timbale and mango salsa (£14.40). The latter is made with tart green mangoes to give a bit of bite on the palate.

In all his dishes mixing cuisine styles, Gresslin makes sure that he does not overload with spices. "You mustn't overdo things. You must start with knowledge and not create a dish just for the sake of it," he says.

His diners obviously think Gresslin has the balance right - they are spending £35-£40 (excluding wine) per head and providing the restaurant with a weekday evening covers of 45, rising to 50-60 at weekends.

Perhaps, too, they appreciate the fact that the dining area is more spacious (seating capacity in the two-level eaterie has been reduced from 59 to 44 as part of the £250,000 refurbishment). "We moved the bar from the entrance to downstairs and put the restaurant on the ground level. It makes the dining area more comfortable and the new design pulls in passing trade much more," explains Gresslin. n

Gresslin's, 13 Heath Street, London NW3 6TP. Tel: 0207 794 8386