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At the age of 14, Maurizio Morelli wanted to be a barman. But when friends at the Italian catering school he attended opted for the kitchen, he changed his mind and stuck with his mates at the stove.
Thirteen years on, Morelli is still cooking and is still in touch with one of those friends. In fact, Francesco Apreda left Ibla in London's Marylebone at the same time as Morelli to join him at Green Olive in Maida Vale, part of the Red Pepper group of neighbourhood restaurants, when he took the job of head chef there in October.
The challenge for Morelli and Apreda at the 58-seat west London venue has been to create lighter and more modern Italian food. "I was offered the chance to improve the quality," says Morelli. "Also, I'd been at Ibla for two-and-a-half years and I felt there was no opportunity to progress."
The new menu is seasonal and changes every two or three months. Although there are some daily specials, Morelli prefers to concentrate on the à la carte, which has been extended to include six starters, six pasta dishes and eight main courses, four of which are fish-based and four meat-based.
His own favourite, and a favourite with customers too, is the selection of fish ravioli with tuna bottarga, a dish he created at Ibla. Ravioli made with squid ink, spinach, tomato or saffron are filled with a different fish - monkfish and courgette with the squid ink ravioli; salmon and chives with the saffron; turbot and carrots with the spinach; and tuna and red pepper with the tomato.
Another fish dish, the steamed fillet of sea bass and foie gras, red wine sauce and gratinated zabaglione, has also proved popular. "The foie gras is steamed so the flavour is light and sweet and the sea bass is quite plain," says Morelli. "The sauce is a reduction of red wine and port so that is bitter and sweet at the same time. It works well."
Sea bass carpaccio with sherry vinaigrette and raspberries, one of the starters, is also selling well. "I love cooking with fish," says Morelli. "But I find meat more interesting, more difficult - you have to get the timing right so it's not tough." Of the meat dishes, roast rabbit with polenta, peppers and basil is a best seller.
Puddings, which are Apreda's forte, include a warm chocolate sponge, strawberry coulis and coconut ice-cream as well as sorbets, ice-creams and Italian cheeses. A selection of desserts incurs a £3 supplement, as does the cheese platter.
Morelli and his brigade of six are building lunchtime trade in this residential area. "I decided to open at lunch because we have to be in the kitchen in the mornings anyway," he says. It's picking up, and Morelli is pleased to see customers from Ibla visit Green Olive, as well as locals. A shorter lunch menu costs £16 for two courses and £19 for three.
The front of house roles are filled by general manager Giovanni Baldino, who is also at the Black Truffle, restaurant manager Massimo Gianti, previously at Ibla, and a team of six waiters and waitresses. And although Green Olive is now open for lunch and dinner five days a week, and for dinner on Saturday, Morelli has found time to oversee the launch of the Red Pepper Group's newest London restaurant, Lemon Thyme, which opened in November in Barnes.
The Green Olive, 5 Warwick Place, Maida Vale, London W9 2PX. Tel: 020 7289 2469
