Village institution

So frequent are visits from regulars to the Village Pub in Barnsley, near Cirencester, Gloucestershire, that head chef Dominic Blake changes the menu twice a day. "We get a lot of people coming in about three times a week, so it's important for them to see something different," he says.

Besides the locals, the 100-seat pub gets a lot of passing trade from tourists, being situated on the main road between Cirencester and Bibury. And its proximity to Cheltenham brings plenty of racegoers, although the cancellation of this year's Cheltenham Week due to the foot-and-mouth outbreak meant that covers were nowhere near the numbers Blake and his three-strong brigade were bracing themselves for. Still, the regular trade - averaging 40 covers at lunch and 30 at dinner, rising to 100 on a Saturday night and for Sunday lunch - kept the team busy.

Quality produce

Blake joined the brigade last November for a month's handover from the then head chef, Graham Grafton, who has gone on to head the kitchen at the King's Arms in Chipping Campden, also owned by Tim Haigh and Rupert Pendered. Blake's move followed six years at Lower Slaughter Manor, the last two as head chef, and although he finds the food offering at the Village Pub "more simple and not so intensely garnished", he insists on the same quality of produce. "We use organic meat and single-breed animals as much as possible," says the 31-year-old chef. "The difference in flavour is amazing."

Meat, particularly beef, is hugely popular with diners, who spend an average of £11 at lunch and £18 at dinner excluding drinks. Rumps, blades and ribs of beef all find their way on to the menu, the latter as a rare roast rib of beef with Yorkshire pudding and tarragon (£9.95), a dish particularly popular at Sunday lunch. Veal also sells well, sometimes braised as osso bucco (£10.50) or as escalopes wrapped in Parma ham and served with a mushroom risotto (£11), but always using English veal, which Blake prefers for its pink appearance and more pronounced flavour.

Fish dishes always make up two of the five main-course choices, with pan-fried sea bass, tomato and chorizo risotto and pesto (£11) being a firm favourite. Fish also features heavily among the five starters, perhaps as a ceviche of salmon with a citrus dressing (£5.25) or grilled mackerel fillet with an onion and pepper compote (£5.25). Vegetarian options include a spinach, tomato and Parmesan tart (£4.95) and a tomato, bean and vegetable broth (£3.75).

Desserts at the weekend are largely traditional and include favourites such as Bramley apple crumble (£3.95) and bread and butter pudding (£3.95), while weekday treats might include a white chocolate mousse with poached figs (£3.95). A selection of farmhouse cheeses with home-made bread and chutney is available at £4.95.

The Village Pub, Barnsley, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 5EF. Tel: 01285 740421. Web site: www.thevillagepub.co.uk