Village people

Parochial north London snobs will probably do a double take as they fumble through the A-Z to find the latest quality restaurant to be opened south of the river.

Outside the tube network, yet only 15 minutes from London Bridge station, Blackheath is the location for One Lawn Terrace.

There is raw West End action in this bijou Regency/Victorian south-east London "village". Conceived and financed by wealthy locals tired of neighbourhood mediocrity, One Lawn Terrace, which seats 150, aims to excite and attract those used to enjoying central London's high culinary standards and who are happy to pay an average of £35 per head including wine.

Quoting independent research, backer Nick Hall says: "Blackheath/Greenwich has three times the national average of ABC1s, so you can imagine the number of times they eat out. This restaurant is for local 30-somethings with kids, who are fed up with having to go into London to eat. Up to now, the closest quality dining has been Butler's Wharf."

Having ploughed in up to £1m to renovate a former printing works, Hall and co want to impress. With the help of Wapping-based designers Detail Furniture, they have created a minimalist and airy feel. Industrial sculptures adorn the edges, tubular steel-framed chairs define the character, and a raised seating area adds to the theatre of this kind of dining. Plans are being hatched for a downstairs delicatessen and home catering service. The atmosphere is of energy and verve.

The kitchen and menu are also intended to cause a stir. Chef Sanjay Dwivedi's CV spans London's Coast, Le Caprice, the Lanesborough and the Atlantic Bar & Grill. His plan is to present a menu that draws on the three distinct food cultures of Thailand, Morocco and Italy.

One of his favourites is the main course offering of Middle Eastern mezze. This is a platter of tabbouleh, houmous, felafel, babaghanoush, haloumi cheese, pitta bread, turmeric and harissa oil (£10). Dwivedi has brought this from the Atlantic and is eager to see how it will sell.

Dwivedi's preferred starter is the Thai-spiced pork ravioli, lemongrass and coconut broth (£6), and for a main he raves about the roasted cod, truffled macaroni, cauliflower purée and sauté trompette mushrooms (£11.50). "Cod is such a light and simple fish. I love trompette mushrooms and their blackness contrasts so well with the white sauce."

One Lawn Terrace, 1 Lawn Terrace, Blackheath Village, London SE3 9LJ. Tel: 0181-355 1110.